Ah Nahleans, the Big Easy...where life is slow, the Hurricanes are potent, and a mule named Killer has a bloodlust for pedestrians. Life doesn't get any better than that.
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I've been to New Orleans several times, the last on a business trip to attend at seminar my boss wanted me to go to.
"There's only one problem," I said. "My husband's birthday is that week."
"Well, we'll pay his airfare to go along with you," Steve said.
I phoned hubby. "How would you like to go to New Orleans for your birthday?" I asked.
"Don't mess with me! That's not funny."
"I'm not messing with you. Steve's sending me to New Orleans
for an IT seminar. He'll pay your airfare to go with me. Want to go?"
"I have to go pack!" CLICK. DIAL TONE.
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I took that as a "yes".
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We were in the midst of a March blizzard when we departed O'Hare Airport. We got an awful lot of strange looks when we landed at the New Orleans airport in at least 100 degree heat, wearing our parkas and our Adirondack Meridian boots.
When's the best time to visit New Orleans? Only December through February (especially if you're coming from our colder Northern climates) when the NOLA temperatures are a balmy 43 degrees F at worst. Visit NOLA any other time of the year and you'll feel like a rotisserie chicken that's been left on the spit too long. The heat and humidity are that bad. These months are also when you'll find the best deals on flights and hotels.
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Avoid NOLA during any celebration, especially Mardis Gras. Leave that one to the Spring Breakers.
Halloween, Jazz Fest (April or May) and any time around the Super Bowl are also times to be avoided.
Getting Around
From a budget standpoint, walking is free. Staying in the French Quarter will mean you can walk to most places, including the CBD (Central Business District) and Garden District but French Quarter accommodations there tend to be pricey and then there's the crowd and noise factor to consider.
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A much better and economical solution is to ride the St. Charles street car and bus.
Single rides cost $1.25, but if you'd like to hop on and hop off the trolley or bus a few times, consider buying a Jazzy Pass for unlimited rides:
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A single-day pass costs $3, a three-day pass costs $8, a seven-day pass costs $15, and a 31-day pass costs $44.
Jazzy Passes can be used on any trolley line and on city buses, too. We bought two 3 day passes which gave us access to any trolley line plus the city buses and that got us anywhere we wanted to go.
While renting a car is an option, especially for larger groups, driving in NOLA is hell and parking a nightmare.
Not to mention expensive. This is especially true in the French Quarter.
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Uber, Lyft, and all major rideshare companies operate throughout New Orleans.
Walking Tours
Getting to know your way around NOLA is very budget friendly, given the variety of free or low cost walking tours, both guided and unguided.
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Download a map from the New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau for a self-guided tour of the French Quarter, perhaps the most famous neighborhood in New Orleans.
There's a free walking tour of the French Quarter where you pay what you want. Sandy Hester has been doing these tours for 20 years as a licensed tour guide. She has a Master's degree in History and is really knowledgeable and interesting. The tour lasts 1-1/2 hours.
Sandy also conducts the Marigny/Frenchmen Street Stroll and NOLA Tour Guy offers a variety of free tours.
Tours By Foot is another pay what you want tour business that offers various tours.
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TAKE A HORSE DRAWN CARRIAGE RIDE AROUND THE FRENCH QUARTER
Besides walking to explore the French Quarter, a mule drawn carriage ride is well worth the money. The guides are super knowledgeable about the history of the French Quarter and really entertaining. We laughed through the whole tour our driver was so entertaining. As was his mule "Killer" with his bloodlust for pedestrians.
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You could find these carriage rides waiting for customers right in front of Jackson Square. We simply walked up to the driver, paid him $10 each and off we went. The tour covered the entire French Quarter.
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Royal Carriages: Offers mule-drawn carriage tours through the French Quarter, providing an authentic experience with knowledgeable guides.
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Visit New Orleans: Lists various horse and carriage tours, including private rides and spontaneous options from Jackson Square.
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Good Old Days Buggies: Provides narrated carriage tours that allow you to experience the French Quarter in a unique way.
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History & Haunts Tour: A specialized tour that explores reported hauntings and legends in the area.
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Private Carriage Tours: Tailored experiences for small groups, allowing for a more intimate exploration of the city.
Accommodations
FRENCH QUARTER - If you want to be in the heart of the action, then the French Quarter is the place to be. This is the most expensive place to stay in New Orleans but there are some budget friendly options like Hotel St. Pierre or the Inn on St. Ann, a guest house previously owned by voodoo priestess Marie Laveau.
Best Hotels in The French Quarter here.
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GARDEN DISTRICT - Less costly than the French Quarter but still connected to everything by the St. Charles streetcar. The Quisby is considered one of the best hostels in the country and the St. Charles Coach House is a budget boutique hotel with streetcar pick up nearby.
Find the best hotels in the Garden District here
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CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT - This is where I stay, it's within walkable distance of the French Quarter and both the St. Charles streetcar and the city bus stop right outside the hotel I stay at when in NOLA.
I've always stayed at Le Pavillion Hotel, right on Poydras Street. ($174 to $223 per night)
Really? A PB&J bar at a 4 star hotel??? ​What am I, five years old again?
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Hey Marriott! If it ain't broke, don't 'fix' it!
I don't like the new cookie cutter chain hotels, I like older hotels with ambiance and a more personal touch to them. Le Pavillion always oozed Southern Hospitality - at least until some rocket scientist at Marriott decided it would be a good idea to redecorate the entire hotel in gaudy French Contemporary, thereby ruining the entire look of this once visual masterpiece of Southern charm.
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​To make matters worse, Marriott painted the walls of the guestrooms gray (well, I was always curious as to what sleeping inside a submarine would be like) and then replaced the phenomenal breakfast buffet table that was at least half a football field long, with a PB&J bar.
Le Pavillion's PB &J bar
SUGGESTIONS FOR OTHER AFFORDABLE CBD ACCOMMODATIONS
Dining
It's really hard not to get swept up in foodie heaven, NOLA. After all, look at all of the greats that came out of New Orleans - the po’boy, gumbo, muffuletta, red beans and rice, beignets, Oysters Rockefeller and Bananas Foster.
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Eating at NOLA's world famous eateries can eat up your travel budget faster than anything. Try one or two of the upscale restaurants and the rest of the time eat like the locals to get the most bang for your food buck.
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BREAKFAST/BRUNCH
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Cafe Maspero
Specializing in po-boys and varieties of seafood platters, seasonal crawfish, and muffulettas.
(Vegetarian muffulettas also available)
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The vibe of the brick-lined eatery is Old World family friendly.
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Located near Jackson Square
Address: 601 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 523-6250
Court of Two Sisters
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​Court of the Two sisters has a daily jazz brunch plus a buffet with Creole staples like chicken & Sausage Gumbo, Turtle Soup au Sherry, Crawfish Etouffee, and bananas foster for dessert. Also serves dinner.
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Their wisteria lined courtyard is the perfect place to listen to the music of NOLA.
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Address: 613 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 522-7261
Toast
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All loaves of bread, biscuits, croissants, jams, custards, and curds are made in-house daily.
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Phenomenal New Orleans food, great prices, and welcoming outdoor seating.
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Address: 1035 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Phone: (504) 300-5518
Croissant D'Or Patisserie
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The croissants at Croissant D’Or Patisserie are known for being fluffy and delicious, some of the finest in the Quarter. All pastries, including tarts, tortes, and quiches — are made fresh in the bakery each morning.
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Address: 617 Ursulines Ave, New Orleans, LA 70116
Phone: (504) 524-4663
LUNCH
Napoleon House
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Enjoy Creole food in the palm tree-studded courtyard or inside the beautiful building built in 1797. I recommend you try the muffulettas.
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Address: 500 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 524-9752
Johnny's Po Boys
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Unpretentious and not open late, this is the perfect spot to pop in, grab a bite, and enjoy the rest of The French Quarter.
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Best Po Boys I've had in New Orleans.
Note: Johnny’s Po Boys is cash only!
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Address: 511 St Louis St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 524-8129
Moonwok
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Moonwok, who offers Chinese and Vietnamese food at reasonable prices. (Stick with the Vietnamese side of the menu though).
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Moonwok is temporarily closed but expected to reopen October 31, 2025.
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Address: 800 Dauphine Street, New Orleans, LA
Phone: (504) 523-6950​
Dinner
Brennan's
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Traditional, fine-dining creole cuisine.
The bananas foster, a flambé dessert dish, was invented here and is still what Brennans is best known for.
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Make reservations up to 30 days in advance since spots fill up almost immediately!
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Address: 417 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 525-9711
Royal Street Inn Bar
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The Royal Street Inn Bar (also known as R Bar) throws free crawfish boils every Friday while the mudbugs are in season. (December through May)
There's a round of free crawfish at 6 p.m. and another an hour later for bar patrons. (Don't forget to tip the chef)
1431 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70116
(504) 948-7499
Pat O'Brien's Hurricanes
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​Hurricane's are the sweet rum (very alcoholic) drink of New Orleans. The best Hurricanes are served at Pat O'Brien's in the French Quarter.
WARNING: They taste like Hawaiian Punch going down - until the delayed wallop hits you like a ton of bricks.
Do not do what I did and slam one down, order a second and slam that one down too. (It was hot out)
My hubby was trying to flag down a street sweeper to sweep me back to the hotel when my legs ceased to function.
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Address: 624 Bourbon St,. New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 525-4823
Carousel Bar
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Not a local hang out but you have to see this bar.
The Carousel Bar and Lounge, inside the impressive Hotel Monteleone, is a popular place to stop by for photos. The unique bar sits atop a merry-go-round and slowly revolves around the stationary bartender island. The elegant decor and glimmering bejeweled paintings in the lounge are also worth the visit. Cool down with a draft beer (starting at $10) or a specialty cocktail, like a refreshing Pimm's Cup, for $18.
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Address: 214 Royal St,, New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: (504) 523-3341
Morning Call Coffee Stand
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Skip the tourist crowds over at Cafe du Monde and head over to Morning Call Coffee Stand instead.
They actually have better tasting beignets and chicory coffee.
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Address: 5101 Canal Street, New Orleans, LA 70124
Phone: (504) 459-2086
Free & Inexpensive New Orleans Attractions
WANDER THROUGH CITY PARK
Photo credit: Pinterest
Walking around New Orleans (or partying on Bourbon Street) can be exhausting, especially in the heat. Head to City Park to recuperate and explore 1,300 acres of oak trees, lagoons, biking and walking trails, lakes, and green space. The park is open year-round, seven days a week, and admission is free.
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If you want to enjoy a really relaxing lunch break, pick up some Po' Boys and have your lunch in the park.
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VISIT JACKSON SQUARE
Photo credit: iStock Photo
Jackson Square sits in the French Quarter and is really kind of a hub of activity - street artists, musicians, fortune tellers, St. Louis Cathedral, mule drawn carriage rides...it's all in Jackson Square, which is free to visit.
Photo credit: Fine Art America
The French Quarter is peppered with voodoo shops playing off the the tradition that originated with West African slaves and refugees from the Haitian Revolution. Stop by the small New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum for a quick tour. Enthusiasts can join a name-your-own-price walking tour to explore more voodoo temples and learn more about its history.
We spent probably a couple of hours alone just walking around the Square and watching all of the artists at work, drawing portraits, and listening to the musicians playing jazz.
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St. Louis Cathedral, overseeing Jackson Square, is one of the oldest cathedrals in America still in operation; the site has welcomed worshipers since 1727.
Venture inside to marvel at sculptures, painted ceilings, and stained-glass windows. It's really a gorgeous place.
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EXPLORE A VOODOO SHOP
Photo credit: Marie Laveaux's House of Voodoo
WATCH A FREE CONCERT AT LAFAYETTE SQUARE
In the spring, catch the free concert series Wednesday at the Square. The Young Leadership Council, a nonprofit civic organization, puts on 12 three-hour concerts from March to June. In addition to hearing local bands playing jazz, rock, funk, swamp pop, and Latin rhythms, visitors can enjoy browsing the works of artists who set up nearby to sell their work.
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BROWSE THE FRENCH MARKET
Take a stroll through the popular French Market before leaving the city. Among the snow cones (which locals call "snowballs" or "snoballs"), spiked smoothies, fresh seafood, and souvenir vendors, there are market stands selling shelves of Southern goodness. Bring home unique hot sauce flavors, gumbo mix, shrimp étouffée seasoning, or dirty rice mix.
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DISCOVER GLASS BLOWING
Glass blowing is a meticulous, precise, and mysterious art. Head to GlassWorks in the city's Arts District, where the curious can buy a 30-minute mini-workshop or two-hour short course -- or view studios, works in progress, and daily demonstrations for free. I dated a guy who owned a glass blowing shop before marrying my husband. It's fascinating to watch and not nearly as easy as the glassblowers make it look. If you're going to do this in New Orleans heat, be aware a glassblowing shop is much hotter than the outside temperatures.
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TAKE A FREE HISTORY TOUR
Photo credit: Jean Lafitte Historic Park and Preserve
Follow a ranger from the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve on a riverfront history walk. Rangers share stories on the beginnings and history of New Orleans on these hour long walks Tuesday through Saturday mornings. Twenty-five first-come, first-served tickets are given out at 9 a.m. at the park's French Quarter Visitor Center.
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SHOP THE CRESCENT CITY FARMER'S MARKET
Every major city has at least one farmers market, and New Orleans is no exception — but this one dates back to 1779. Shop for flowers, organic goods to snack on, or even fresh food to cook at the Crescent City Farmers Market, which runs every Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday at different locations. There are often demonstrations and lessons in Southern cooking, some from famed local chefs.
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CONTEMPLATE THE AFTERLIFE WITH NEW ORLEANS SECRETS TOURS
Photo credit: New Orleans Secret Tours
Learn about the numerous legends and myths of the city on one of New Orleans Secrets Tours, which offers a range of options including a paranormal experience tour, a mysteries of voodoo tour, and ghosts of the French Quarter tour.
The company also offers a variety of other tours that aren't spooky, including a French Quarter History tour, a New Orleans Cocktail tour, and a Beyond the French Quarter Tour.
Be sure to take a tour of St. Louis Cemetery #1. Tours By Foot offers a pay what you want tour of the cemetery. This is where voodoo queen Marie Laveux is buried. It was rumored that if you performed a short ritual that finished with make 3 chalk X's on her grave and made a wish, she would grant your wish.
My younger brother wished for money and walked out of the cemetery to find a $20 bill lying on the sidewalk. True story!
Marie Laveux's grave
CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS YEARROUND AT THE PRESBYTERE
Photo credit: Presbytere
For those looking to avoid the crowds and high prices of visiting New Orleans during Mardi Gras, you can still learn about the vibrant history about the world-famous celebration at The Presbytère. Built in the late 18th-century on the site of the Capuchin monks' residence, this beautiful historic building is one the nine sites of the Louisiana State Museum.
Here you'll find a colorful and informative exhibit dedicated to Mardi Gras, complete with parade floats, costumes and music, as well as another exhibit in honor of the losses suffered by Katrina and other hurricanes. Admission is $7 for adults; $6 for seniors, students, and active military; and free for kids under 6.
TAKE A WALK THROUGH THE GARDEN DISTRICT
I remember my first walk through the Garden District. I was in awe of the mansions with their impeccably landscaped yards. One of them even had a peacock wandering around. The Garden District looks like something off a Norman Rockwell painting and it's totally free to tour.
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Here's a free guided tour and also a self guided tour with map.
Other Attractions
NATCHEZ JAZZ SUNSET & DINNER CRUISE
For our dinner on the Steamboat Natchez, we were offered a menu of: Steamboat Salad Salad, Louisiana Style Fried Fish, Bronzed Chicken, Top Round of Beef with au jus, Paddlewheel Pork Loin with Creole Mustard, Penne Quattro Formaggi, Pilot House Potatoes, Maque Choux, Creole Creamed Spinach and Bread Pudding for dessert.
We paid $58 apiece and I didn't think that was at all unreasonable for the dinner we had plus live entertainment.​
Following dinner a jazz band took the stage and although I'm not normally a jazz fan, I really enjoyed that band.
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The sunset was breathtaking as were the lights of New Orleans after dark. One could almost drift off to sleep in their deck chair, to the steady rhythm of the paddlewheel and the gentle lapping of waves against the side of the boat.
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If you're going to visit the "Big Easy" then you definitely need to take a riverboat cruise.
Different options are offered. Visit their website for details.
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AUDUBON AQUARIUM
Located on the Mississippi River adjacent to the French Quarter, Audubon Aquarium is consistently top ranked, voted as one of the top five in the country in the USA Today “10 Best” reader poll and ranked as one of the top things to do in New Orleans. The Aquarium transports visitors to an underwater world from the Caribbean, to the Amazon Rainforest, to the waters that give New Orleans its lifeblood: the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico. With more than 3,600 animals from more than 250 species, including endangered species, such as African penguins, and rare animals, such as white alligators, the Aquarium offers you an experience you’ll never forget.
A pass will admit you to both the aquarium and insectarium. Website
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NATIONAL WORLD WAR II MUSEUM
Photo credit: National WWII Museum
If you're military, knew somone who fought in WWII or just a history buff, you don't want to miss seeing the National WWII Museum. Follow in the footsteps of the citizen soldier in 360-degree displays that take visitors through key settings in World War II. The galleries serve as an immersive timeline and provide a servicemember's view of the war.
The National WWII Museum tells the story of the American experience in the war that changed the world—why it was fought, how it was won, and what it means today—so that all generations can understand the price of freedom and be inspired by what they learn. Through exhibits, multimedia experiences, and thousands of personal accounts, the Museum takes visitors on an immersive tour of World War II in every theater of war.
You can easily spend a full day at this museum there are so many different exhibits to see, each of them focusing on a different aspect of WWII. There's over 19,000 square feet of exhibit space housing 19 different exhibits on both the Pacific and European theaters. Plus they just added a new theater, showing a 3D movie presentation.
The basic admission adult ticket is $36. However, check here as there are discounts for certain groups.
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TAKE AN AIRBOAT RIDE
Explore the cypress swamps on a small flatbottomed airboat. I didn't think I'd get that excited about this trip but we really had a blast! The swamp is beautiful with the Spanish moss hanging down everywhere...and yet kind of creepy at the same time.
We couldn't believe how close the gators would get to the boat...but I guess they've developed a taste for marshmallows! They seemed to have no problem interacting with people and didn't seem aggressive at all.
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This airboat ride takes place near Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve. Gators are most commonly spotted in summer months.
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Both self-drive and hotel pickup options are available to fit your budget and schedule. We paid $59 per person for the roughly 90 minute tour.
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Captain Brad was very knowledgeable, we learned a lot about the bayou.
New Orleans Money Saving Tips
CHECK GROUPON
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Right now it has a whole lot of deals in New Orleans:
SKIP THE CRUISE BUT DON'T MISS THE RIVER
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If you don't want to fork out for a river cruise but still want to see the Mississippi, take the Canal St. ferry for FREE across to Algiers Point. It’s a quick ride but you’ll have a chance to ride the river and explore a different part of the city. Pick up a free walking tour map of Algiers from the national park office.
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THE NEW ORLEANS PASS
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FREE Entry to 25+ top New Orleans attractions. See the most popular attractions and enjoy the best tours in New Orleans at no extra cost. Save money at popular attractions. The New Orleans Pass contains over $400 of attraction entrance fees. TOP NEW ORLEANS TOURIST PASSES
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Check out COUPONS & DEALS FOR NEW ORLEANS
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REQUEST A VISITOR'S GUIDE
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Go here to request a visitor's guide - OR view online version - Valuable coupons for dining, tours, music, museums and more.
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Even though New Orleans is reputed to be an expensive city to visit, I didn't find that to be the case at all by taking advantage of budget travel opportunities.