I'm a railroad brat. My grandfather was Yardmaster for the Milwaukee Road (Twin Cities) so I grew up riding the rails. It was inevitable I'd eventually throw the budget out the window to take the train trip of a lifetime, accompanied by my travel sidekick, Jay.
A note before we get started: I've since read some reviews where passengers were rather unhappy with the train often being delayed, sometimes for long periods of time.
I investigated this and learned VIA Rail does not own the track it operates on. It rents them from the Crown, which is primarily a freight hauler. Therefore, the freight trains have priority over passenger trains and this is what causes the delays. We did not experience any signifcant delays...but if you're in a hurry, you might want to book a different train excursion.
We booked our trip through Vacations By Rail but different companies offer different trips.
No matter which company you decide to book with, I'd advise you to work with one of their agents. Our agent was phenomenal, handling even the smallest details for us so we never got any unpleasant surprises during our trip.
Prestige Journey Rails Across Canada
We booked the Prestige Journey Across Canada 11 day excursion through 8 Canadian provinces. This remarkable journey travels from the West Coast to the East (or vice versa, both options are available). The great thing about this trip is that you see scenery in the Rocky Mountain area you wouldn't likely see except by train.
The trip begins in Vancouver, a spectacular coastal city between the deep blue Pacific and breathtaking rainforest and mountain scenes. We enjoyed a day to explore its endless contrasts before boarding VIA Rail's Canadian for our rail journey through the majestic Rocky Mountains and across the Canadian Shield to Toronto. We visited Niagara Falls as well. Stays in centrally located hotels and a wonderful mixture of guided sightseeing and leisure time allow you to connect with each location. Our trip would conclude in Toronto.
I normally focus on travel for the budget conscious but this was a once-in-a-lifetime splurge trip. However, you can make this a budget conscious trip by utilizing Economy Class.
Fare chart credit: The Man In Seat 61
The Train Itself
Economy Class
Economy class usually consists of two seats cars and a skyline lounge/dome car up front immediately behind the locomotives & baggage car. Economy Class seats cars have comfortable reclining seats with a 40 degree recline, leg-rest and loads of legroom. All seats have a power outlet and you can buy a blanket & pillow set from the skyline car if you haven't brought your own. An Economy class seat costs a fraction of the price of a Sleeper Plus berth, and with a coffee shop, lounge area and observation dome, the facilities in Economy class are still excellent. Break up the trip with stopovers in Winnipeg & Jasper if you don't want to spend 4 nights in a row in a seat.
Economy Class Seats Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Economy Class Skyline Car
The skyline car has a lounge at one end, tables & chairs at the other, an observation dome in the center with attendant's galley underneath. In the skyline you can buy tea, coffee, Canadian red & white wine by the glass, spirits, beer, snacks & microwaved hot meals. Seats in the dome are first-come first-served. The Skyline Car is the one with the distinctive observation dome on top as seen below.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Coffee station at rear of car
Lounge at opposite end of car
Sleeper Plus Class
This is the class most people opt for. Sleeper Plus class consists of a number of Manor class sleeping-cars, serviced by a skyline lounge/dome car and a restaurant car.
In Sleeper Plus class you have your own sleeping-berth in either an open-plan section, a single-berth roomette or a 2-berth bedroom, the fare includes all meals in the elegant Sleeper Plus restaurant car, complimentary tea, coffee & morning juice in the skyline car. After 4 pm every day you can use the famous Park car, with its full-service bar, dome and bullet lounge, although the Park car is restricted to Prestige class passengers between 6 am & 4 pm. You can also use the business class lounge at Toronto Union Station.
The Sleeper Plus cars are divided into 3 sections: 1 section for roomettes, 1 section for bedrooms and the last section for community toilets and shower that are used by all occupants of the car.
Open seats that convert to bunks
These upper and lower bunks or berths will be your cheapest sleeping option in Sleeper Plus Class. The berths are not enclosed compartments. Rather at night, an attendant makes up the berths by pulling the two seats together and putting a mattress and bedding on the lower bunk to form a bed and the upper bunk folds out from the wall. Heavy curtains are then hung for privacy. So essentially, you're sleeping in an aisle with a privacy curtain. To use the shower or toilet you must go to the end of the car where they're located. Note that there are no power sockets in these berths.
The Train Itself
Economy Class
Economy class usually consists of two seats cars and a skyline lounge/dome car up front immediately behind the locomotives & baggage car. Economy Class seats cars have comfortable reclining seats with a 40 degree recline, leg-rest and loads of legroom. All seats have a power outlet and you can buy a blanket & pillow set from the skyline car if you haven't brought your own. An Economy class seat costs a fraction of the price of a Sleeper Plus berth, and with a coffee shop, lounge area and observation dome, the facilities in Economy class are still excellent. Break up the trip with stopovers in Winnipeg & Jasper if you don't want to spend 4 nights in a row in a seat.
Economy Class Seats Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Economy Class Skyline Car
The skyline car has a lounge at one end, tables & chairs at the other, an observation dome in the center with attendant's galley underneath. In the skyline you can buy tea, coffee, Canadian red & white wine by the glass, spirits, beer, snacks & microwaved hot meals. Seats in the dome are first-come first-served. The Skyline Car is the one with the distinctive observation dome on top as seen below.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Coffee station at rear of car
Lounge at opposite end of car
Sleeper Plus Class
This is the class most people opt for. Sleeper Plus class consists of a number of Manor class sleeping-cars, serviced by a skyline lounge/dome car and a restaurant car.
In Sleeper Plus class you have your own sleeping-berth in either an open-plan section, a single-berth roomette or a 2-berth bedroom, the fare includes all meals in the elegant Sleeper Plus restaurant car, complimentary tea, coffee & morning juice in the skyline car. After 4 pm every day you can use the famous Park car, with its full-service bar, dome and bullet lounge, although the Park car is restricted to Prestige class passengers between 6 am & 4 pm. You can also use the business class lounge at Toronto Union Station.
The Sleeper Plus cars are divided into 3 sections: 1 section for roomettes, 1 section for bedrooms and the last section for community toilets and shower that are used by all occupants of the car.
Open seats that convert to bunks
These upper and lower bunks or berths will be your cheapest sleeping option in Sleeper Plus Class. The berths are not enclosed compartments. Rather at night, an attendant makes up the berths by pulling the two seats together and putting a mattress and bedding on the lower bunk to form a bed and the upper bunk folds out from the wall. Heavy curtains are then hung for privacy. So essentially, you're sleeping in an aisle with a privacy curtain. To use the shower or toilet you must go to the end of the car where they're located. Note that there are no power sockets in these berths.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Seats folded out into bunks
Roomettes for 1 person
Unlike the berths, a roomette is a fully-enclosed, lockable compartment or a cabin for 1. Be aware that they're small, room enough for an armchair + legroom opposite a padded leg rest that holds the toilet beneath it. There is a small sink in the corner plus a drinking water tap. The bed is stored behind your seat and pulls down at night but it fills the entire cabin so there's only enough room for a person to stand next to the bed with the door closed. Heavy curtains are provided in the doorway so you can keep the door open and back into the corridor to get in and out of bed, hidden by the curtains. But here's the kicker...if you have to use the toilet in the middle of the night, you're going to have to fold your bed back up to do so! So it's easier just to use the community toilets at the end of the car. You will be sharing a community shower with everyone else in the car.
Each roomette also comes with tissues, two power sockets and an electric fan.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Bedroom for 2 people
A bedroom is also a fully-enclosed lockable compartment big enough for two people to sleep. By day you sit in two comfortable armchairs. In the evening your attendant will fold down the lower berth and lower the upper berth from the ceiling. The foldable armchairs fit under the lower berth when the cabin is configured for sleeping.
Each bedroom has a sink with hot and cold water, a drinking water tap (cups provided), and a small en suite toilet.
Each bedroom also comes with tissues, two power sockets and an electric fan.
Also be aware of the fact that partitions between adjacent bedrooms can be removed to make a family suite for 4 people.
Bedroom in day configuration
Bedroom in night configuration
Photos credit: Man In Seat 61
Money $aving Tip: You can't do this booking online, you must do it booking by phone or at a station.
The above cabins are labeled A through F. F is larger than the rest of the cabins. So ask for Compartment F when booking and you'll get more room for no extra money.
Prestige Class
After seeing the other sleeping accommodations were really glad we spent the money. We had a lot more room to move around in and a TV with prerecorded movies, although we never watched it much.
The Restaurant Car
There's one or more restaurant cars depending on the season for both Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers, who have their meals included in their fare. Wine and soft drinks cost extra for Sleeper Plus but are included in Prestige.
The restaurant car serves 3 meals per day - breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sleeper Plus passengers require reservations, Prestige Passengers don't. Prestige passengers get first choice so the dining cars fill up fast. (We'd just tell the train staff Pieter and Anna were our guests for meals so they didn't have to make reservations and none of the train staff seemed to care that we did this so that we could eat together.) During the busy summer months there's usually 3 servings of dinner at 5 pm, 7 pm and 9 pm and the 7 pm sitting will fill up the fastest. In the off season months there's typically 2 servings of dinner at 6 pm and 8 pm.
I wasn't sure what to expect as far as food quality but it was fantastic! They use locally sourced ingredients from the area the train is traveling through. For dinner you get soup or salad, a choice of entrees and a choice of desserts. I have to say the food was every bit as good as restaurant fare.
The Skyline Car
Next to the restaurant car(s) there's a Skyline lounge/dome car for Sleeper Plus passengers. The lounge portion of the car is at the front end of the car, the observation dome in the center, the tables and chairs at the rear of the car. In the tables area is a complimentary tea and coffee station with juice, pastries and biscuits laid out in the morning. In the Skyline car you can also purchase red and white whine, spirits, beer, snacks and soft drinks.
Activities are also held from time to time in the Skyline car such as talks about wildlife or beer and wine tastings.
The only time you'll need to grab a dome seat early is when you depart Jasper and head for the Rockies as that's when the dome car will fill up fast.
Skyline Observation Dome
Skyline Car Lounge
The Park Car
The Park Car is the signature car at the very rear of the train. The Park car features the Bullet Lounge at the very rear providing great views back along the track, with complimentary tea & coffee, a raised observation dome and a full-service bar with tables & chairs beneath the dome, where all of the Prestige passengers hang out.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61 The Park Car
The full service bar beneath the Park Car dome
The Bulllet Lounge
Park Car stairs leading up to observation dome
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The Train Itself
Economy Class
Economy class usually consists of two seats cars and a skyline lounge/dome car up front immediately behind the locomotives & baggage car. Economy Class seats cars have comfortable reclining seats with a 40 degree recline, leg-rest and loads of legroom. All seats have a power outlet and you can buy a blanket & pillow set from the skyline car if you haven't brought your own. An Economy class seat costs a fraction of the price of a Sleeper Plus berth, and with a coffee shop, lounge area and observation dome, the facilities in Economy class are still excellent. Break up the trip with stopovers in Winnipeg & Jasper if you don't want to spend 4 nights in a row in a seat.
Economy Class Seats Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Economy Class Skyline Car
The skyline car has a lounge at one end, tables & chairs at the other, an observation dome in the center with attendant's galley underneath. In the skyline you can buy tea, coffee, Canadian red & white wine by the glass, spirits, beer, snacks & microwaved hot meals. Seats in the dome are first-come first-served. The Skyline Car is the one with the distinctive observation dome on top as seen below.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Coffee station at rear of car
Lounge at opposite end of car
Sleeper Plus Class
This is the class most people opt for. Sleeper Plus class consists of a number of Manor class sleeping-cars, serviced by a skyline lounge/dome car and a restaurant car.
In Sleeper Plus class you have your own sleeping-berth in either an open-plan section, a single-berth roomette or a 2-berth bedroom, the fare includes all meals in the elegant Sleeper Plus restaurant car, complimentary tea, coffee & morning juice in the skyline car. After 4 pm every day you can use the famous Park car, with its full-service bar, dome and bullet lounge, although the Park car is restricted to Prestige class passengers between 6 am & 4 pm. You can also use the business class lounge at Toronto Union Station.
The Sleeper Plus cars are divided into 3 sections: 1 section for roomettes, 1 section for bedrooms and the last section for community toilets and shower that are used by all occupants of the car.
Open seats that convert to bunks
These upper and lower bunks or berths will be your cheapest sleeping option in Sleeper Plus Class. The berths are not enclosed compartments. Rather at night, an attendant makes up the berths by pulling the two seats together and putting a mattress and bedding on the lower bunk to form a bed and the upper bunk folds out from the wall. Heavy curtains are then hung for privacy. So essentially, you're sleeping in an aisle with a privacy curtain. To use the shower or toilet you must go to the end of the car where they're located. Note that there are no power sockets in these berths.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Seats folded out into bunks
Roomettes for 1 person
Unlike the berths, a roomette is a fully-enclosed, lockable compartment or a cabin for 1. Be aware that they're small, room enough for an armchair + legroom opposite a padded leg rest that holds the toilet beneath it. There is a small sink in the corner plus a drinking water tap. The bed is stored behind your seat and pulls down at night but it fills the entire cabin so there's only enough room for a person to stand next to the bed with the door closed. Heavy curtains are provided in the doorway so you can keep the door open and back into the corridor to get in and out of bed, hidden by the curtains. But here's the kicker...if you have to use the toilet in the middle of the night, you're going to have to fold your bed back up to do so! So it's easier just to use the community toilets at the end of the car. You will be sharing a community shower with everyone else in the car.
Each roomette also comes with tissues, two power sockets and an electric fan.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61
Bedroom for 2 people
A bedroom is also a fully-enclosed lockable compartment big enough for two people to sleep. By day you sit in two comfortable armchairs. In the evening your attendant will fold down the lower berth and lower the upper berth from the ceiling. The foldable armchairs fit under the lower berth when the cabin is configured for sleeping.
Each bedroom has a sink with hot and cold water, a drinking water tap (cups provided), and a small en suite toilet.
Each bedroom also comes with tissues, two power sockets and an electric fan.
Also be aware of the fact that partitions between adjacent bedrooms can be removed to make a family suite for 4 people.
Bedroom in day configuration
Bedroom in night configuration
Photos credit: Man In Seat 61
Money $aving Tip: You can't do this booking online, you must do it booking by phone or at a station.
The above cabins are labeled A through F. F is larger than the rest of the cabins. So ask for Compartment F when booking and you'll get more room for no extra money.
Prestige Class
After seeing the other sleeping accommodations were really glad we spent the money. We had a lot more room to move around in and a TV with prerecorded movies, although we never watched it much.
The Restaurant Car
There's one or more restaurant cars depending on the season for both Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers, who have their meals included in their fare. Wine and soft drinks cost extra for Sleeper Plus but are included in Prestige.
The restaurant car serves 3 meals per day - breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sleeper Plus passengers require reservations, Prestige Passengers don't. Prestige passengers get first choice so the dining cars fill up fast. (We'd just tell the train staff Pieter and Anna were our guests for meals so they didn't have to make reservations and none of the train staff seemed to care that we did this so that we could eat together.) During the busy summer months there's usually 3 servings of dinner at 5 pm, 7 pm and 9 pm and the 7 pm sitting will fill up the fastest. In the off season months there's typically 2 servings of dinner at 6 pm and 8 pm.
I wasn't sure what to expect as far as food quality but it was fantastic! They use locally sourced ingredients from the area the train is traveling through. For dinner you get soup or salad, a choice of entrees and a choice of desserts. I have to say the food was every bit as good as restaurant fare.
The Skyline Car
Next to the restaurant car(s) there's a Skyline lounge/dome car for Sleeper Plus passengers. The lounge portion of the car is at the front end of the car, the observation dome in the center, the tables and chairs at the rear of the car. In the tables area is a complimentary tea and coffee station with juice, pastries and biscuits laid out in the morning. In the Skyline car you can also purchase red and white whine, spirits, beer, snacks and soft drinks.
Activities are also held from time to time in the Skyline car such as talks about wildlife or beer and wine tastings.
The only time you'll need to grab a dome seat early is when you depart Jasper and head for the Rockies as that's when the dome car will fill up fast.
Skyline Observation Dome
Skyline Car Lounge
The Park Car
The Park Car is the signature car at the very rear of the train. The Park car features the Bullet Lounge at the very rear providing great views back along the track, with complimentary tea & coffee, a raised observation dome and a full-service bar with tables & chairs beneath the dome, where all of the Prestige passengers hang out.
Photos credit: The Man In Seat 61 The Park Car
The full service bar beneath the Park Car dome
The Bulllet Lounge
Park Car stairs leading up to observation dome
That's a tour of the Canadian.
Accommodations
Our overnight stays off the train were at the Fairmont Hotels and were included in our train fare.
Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge in Jasper
Arrival in Vancouver
Our fare included a one night stay at the Vancouver Fairmont but we booked two extra days before the rail trip; a day to recover from traveling to Vancouver and a day of sightseeing since Jay had never seen Vancouver before.
STANLEY PARK
Since we only had a day to explore, I decided to take Jay to the most popular place in Vancouver - Stanley Park. Admission is free, it's right in downtown Vancouver and there is a whole variety of things to see and do right in the park.
The park circles the Vancouver sea wall with both a pedestrian walking path and a separate bicycle path.
It takes 2-3 hours to walk the trail, half of that time to cycle it.
You can download a map of the park here that includes a complete guide to all of the attractions.
Because we were short on time, we took a one hour horse drawn guided carriage tour around the park. $47.66 current price, USD.
This tour passes the rose gardens, the totem poles and the girl in a wetsuit sculpture that Vancouver is notorious for, as the guide explains the stories and history behind all of them.
Indigenous totem poles
If you'd rather go less expensive, there's a self guided GPS bike tour of the park available starting at $3.57 per person + your bike rental fee. This tour lasts 1 - 2 hours.
It includes park highlights:
-
Stanley Park Sea Wall
-
Totem Poles
-
Lions Gate Bridge
-
Vancouver Aquarium
-
Third Beach
Tour Starting Point: Spokes Bike Rental
1798 W Georgia St, Vancouver - just steps from the park entrance.
Woman in a wetsuit statue
They aren't required or necessary but you may want to bring headphones or earbuds and don't forget to charge your phone! You can also bring along your swim suit if you want to stop for a swim at Third Beach as you will bike the entire loop.
We took another very interesting 2 hour guided walking tour called Vancouver Secrets of Stanley Park that I booked through Viator. $27.72 (We paid less because we got the senior discounted rate)
Our guide, Cole was super knowledgeable and entertaining. This tour reveals the dark side of Stanley Park that you probably wouldn't learn otherwise if touring the park yourself.
It explores the park’s weirdest art installations, crime scenes, hidden trails, and secret cemeteries. As you walk through the park, you learn fascinating bits of Vancouver history, from Deadman’s Island to the long-lost village of Whoi Whoi. And since this walking tour begins and ends at the entrance, you are in the perfect location to keep exploring when the tour concludes.
Vancouver Secrets of Stanley Park Walking Tour
This is one of the most popular Vancouver tours so you want to book about a month in advance.
There is also the Vancouver Aquarium to explore, located right in Stanley Park. Admission price varies by date so you must check their website for pricing. It's best to purchase your tickets online.
Connect with over 65,000 incredible animals like rescued sea otters and sea lions across 120 world-class indoor and outdoor exhibits. Dive into an immersive 4D Theatre Experience®, learn hands-on in the Wet Lab, get up close during interactive animal enrichment programs, and so much more.
Stanley Park Teahouse
Fish & Chips
Because it was convenient and located right in the park, we stopped for lunch at the Stanley Park Teahouse - and boy, were we glad we did.
Beautiful place with a fantastic view and the fish and chips we ordered were delicious. $$
After lunch we took a hop on hop off trolley tour so that we could hop on and hop off at the things Jay wanted to see.
Current price $44.92 per person.
Stanley Park Teahouse
We called it an early night after dinner in the hotel and a swim in the hotel pool. We had a train to catch the next morning!
Fairmont Vancouver pool Photo credit: Fairmont Hotels
All Aboard!
We all met in the hotel lobby the next morning and were shuttled to Pacific Station to board the Canadian. We got settled into our cabins and toured the train.
Vancouver's Pacific Central train station
Train station lobby
Sleeper Plus & Prestige passengers should check in for the Canadian at the reception desk inside the VIA Business Lounge where you are ticked off the passenger list. Table reservations for dinner in the diner are also made in the lounge before boarding. Staff in the lounge will tell you when boarding starts, and which track to go to.
The Canadian leaving Vancouver for Kamloopa and Jasper
We also got to know our concierge and the train staff that would serve as our guides. Great group of people!
On Day One We traveled through beautiful British Columbia with its lush farmland and berry fields, winding river canyons, and pristine forests.
We kind of had to chuckle to ourselves...our fellow passengers seemed obsessed with seeing a moose and the Great Moose Hunt was on the minute we pulled out of the station. (Hadn't they ever taken a Canadian uber before??)
I mean we're talking a large, indestructible animal with a brain the size of a softball, who tend to take the attitude "Destroy first, ask questions later". They think nothing of getting in a standoff on the tracks with an approaching train! And have done so before!
Canadian uber
King Charles XI of Sweden once tried to domesticate moose to use in their cavalry and he pretty quickly figured out that wasn't the best idea he'd ever had, and they just best stick to the horses before his entire cavalry unit ended up in traction.
At any rate...
I have to say the trip from Vancouver to Jasper had some of the most breathtaking scenery in the entire trip.
Sans moose.
Vancouver to Jasper
At short stops like Kamloops if you're going to get off the train to stretch your legs or go into the train station, take your ticket with you. You will have to wait in the station until you get the call to re-board the train.
After a brief stop in Kamloops we arrived in Jasper. We stepped off the train and were transported to our hotel accommodations for that night at Fairmont's Jasper Park Lodge. What a gorgeous lodge!
Photos credit: Jasper Park Lodge
I was glad we got to see the little town of Jasper and Jasper National Park before fire wiped them out in 2024.
Jasper was the coolest little town you could easily walk from one end to the other. What struck me about Jasper was the sense of community among the residents of Jasper. In walking around Jasper, we stumbled on their community garden and a woman working there gave us a tour of the huge garden.
Jasper Community Garden
Town of Jasper with its 2 Brothers totem pole
On each scheduled stop the train makes VIA Rail offers an excursion or choice of excursions. That evening's excursion was the Jasper Evening Discovery Tour.
We learned how Jasper's animals contribute to the rich diversity of the national park and how they survive the summer weather. Your guide shows you the park's most scenic sites as you travel by small tour bus through the Athabasca Valley.
Athabasca Valley Photo credit: Jasper Natl. Park
The Jasper Park Lodge had three in-lodge restaurants to choose from, all outrageously expensive!
($12 for a side of mac & cheese, $38 for an order of nachos, $200 for a steak) A group of us decided to have dinner together at the lodge - but had a hard time swallowing the prices! Until another gal and I spotted the
Il Gusto Italiano, a 3 course meal for $99 at Orso Trattoria restaurant. You have your choice of 3: Select your choice of Primi, Secondi, & Dolce courses.
We chose the Rabbit Tortellini (regularly $28) for our Primo selection, Bistecca Alla Fiorentina for 2 (40 oz. T Bone steak, Confit Potato, Confit Tomato, Charred Lemon, Chianti Jus - $159) for our entree or Secondi, and for our Dolce the Tiramisu ($16) so we saved $104. The food was delicious but Orso Trattoria is one of those fine dining restaurants where your entree is smaller than your appetizer and they draw squiggles all over half the plate rather than actually put food there instead. Like this and then charge you $200 for the steak...
They weren't fooling me! I'd already seen their community garden with a gazillion cherry tomato plants in it.
But at least the camaraderie that developed between our group was worth more than the price of the food. You can't put a dollar value on friendship.
We met a charming couple from the Netherlands, Pieter and Anna and the four of us hit it off so well we spent much of the remaining trip in each other's company.
Of course, the main topic of conversation at dinner that night was the Great Moose Hunt, how it was day 3 and anyone had yet to see a single moose.
DAY 4 - ICEFIELDS PARKWAY TO BANFF
National Geographic declared the Icefields Parkway to Banff one of the most beautiful drives in the world - and it lived up to that claim.
Not only are you in the Canadian Rockies, but every turn on this road is met with mountains, ice fields, waterfalls, and tons of glorious stop-offs.
The Icefields Parkway is a 232 km stretch of double-lane highway taking you along the Continental Divide. It runs from Lake Louise in Banff to the town of Jasper, both fantastic places.
If you're going to drive the Icefields Parkway yourself, I highly recommend downloading the Icefields Parkway Guide Along App!
Money $aving Tip: use code WORLDPUR for 25% off!
The absolute fastest you could make the drive is three hours. That's without stopping to see any of the spectacular sights. If you have the time, I would give you at least two full days to drive the Icefields Parkway. You can drive sections from Jasper or Banff. The other option is to stop overnight somewhere in the middle near the Columbia Icefields Center (the Glacier View Lodge is dreamy), but there are also a few campsites along the way too.
If you're going to camp, I recommend Waterfowl Lakes Campground.
Waterfowl Lakes Campground sits between Upper and Lower Waterfowl lakes on the Mistaya River. These stunning glacier-fed lakes are excellent for paddling while taking in the surrounding mountains. This wooded campground boasts easy access to moderate hiking trails and is a short drive from Saskatchewan Crossing, Bow Lake, and the Peyto Lake viewpoint.
There are 110 sites.
Camping Services: Drinking water
Flush toilet
Outhouse
Cooking shelter
Picnic shelter
Firepits
Dumping station: sewage disposal
Accessible
Interpretive programs
Food storage locker
Campsites are unserviced and best suited for tents, or motorhomes and trailers up to 9 meters (31 feet). Ask about the free Saturday evening interpretive programs hosted by Parks Canada at the campground theater.
There is no cell-phone coverage at any campgrounds on the Icefields Parkway.
DAY 5 - EXPLORE BANFF NATIONAL PARK
Photo credit: Parks Canada
If you're not traveling by train in a tour package, admission to Banff National Park requires a Parks Canada Discovery Pass.
There are entry fees for adults and children over 17. A non-refundable reservation fee applies when booking online ($3.50) or by phone. ($5.50)
Youth under the age of 17 can enter the park free.
You can purchase a day pass or Annual Discovery Pass online, at the park gates, or in person at the Visitor Centers.
Daily Admission
Adult $11.00
Senior $9.50
Youth free
Family/Group $22.00
Commercial Group, per person $9.35 See other fees here
We were staying overnight in Banff so had checked into the Fairmont's Banff Springs the day before.
DAY 5 - EXPLORE BANFF NATIONAL PARK FURTHER
We had 3 options to choose from for Day 5:
Banff Sightseeing Tour with Gondola and Cruise
Banff E-Bike Tour
Yoho National Park and Lake Louise Tour
We chose the Banff Sightseeing Tour with Gondola and Cruise.
You definitely want to take a ride on the Banff Gondola!
The gondola takes you to the summit of Sulphur Mountain where you'll have sweeping views of six
mountain ranges, the Bow Valley. At the summit you can stroll the boardwalk to the Cosmic Ray Station and Sanson’s Peak, or head inside to explore the mountaintop discovery center, where the story of Canada’s first national park unfolds.
You have 3 dining options at the summit:
-
Grab-and-go fare at Castle Mountain Coffee Co.
-
The Northern Lights Alpine Kitchen buffet
-
An elegant upscale meal at Sky Bistro.
Food in Banff isn't cheap. The buffet costs $45 per person so we made that the main meal of our day. But in all honesty, it's the spectacular view you're paying for more than the food.
Northern Lights Buffet Photo credit: Banff Gondola
The cruise is a boat cruise of Lake Miniwanka.
Photo credit: Canada Parks
There are different Lake Minnewanka cruise options you can take, ours was the 1.5 hour extended tour that took you deeper into the lake than the 1 hour tour does, taking you past Devil's Gap. Devil's Gap is the narrow mountain pass which opens up toward the prairies of Alberta.
Devil's Gap
Lake Minnewanka is a glacial lake and the largest lake in Banff.
The cruise was a great relaxing way to see the Canadian Rockies and the lake. The scenery was magnificent and our boat skipper was very knowledgeable.
Oh, and you'll also get to sample pine tea while on your cruise.
Our Lake Minnewanka cruise was part of our train package but if you want to book a boat cruise go here.
There's some great things to see and do in Banff. My top picks are:
DAY 6 - TRAVEL FROM BANFF TO JASPER
We had 2 options today:
Private Transfer to Jasper
Six Glaciers Helicopter and Icefields Tour
After my brush-with-death chopper experience at Rushmore, we opted for the private transfer to Jasper so we could explore the town more. It was the right choice to make given Jasper barely exists anymore. We doubted there was any brush with death we'd have exploring Jasper. Although an elk did follow us for a while as we were walking down the road.
Jasper was just a small town, you could easily walk its length several times in a day. Jasper was a vibrant community known for its natural beauty and outdoor activities. Before the fires, it was a tourist hub. The town featured historic buildings and a variety of accommodations for visitors.
We explored the town and grabbed some lunch there. The locals all advised us to go to Jasper Pizza Place.
Not only did they make fantastic pizza, they were the only place in Jasper with a covered rooftop patio where you could enjoy spectacular views while you ate.
They had 24 different pizzas on offer separated into two categories, deep dish and wood-fired.
They offer thin crust and deep dish but they also offer other pub fare if you're not into a pizza. By the way, you can build your own pizza as well. The ingredients for their pizza came from Jasper's community garden we saw.
I don't know if they've rebuilt since the fire but if Jasper Pizza Place does rebuild, it's a great lunch stop.
For such a small town, Jasper has (had?) some pretty darned good restaurants. We met up with Pieter and Anna at a place called Harvest Food & Drink for dinner. Actually for Happy Hour. 3 pm to 6 pm.
They're open for breakfast, lunch and dinner but later in the day, they have a more varied menu with a selection of American staples. You can choose from a charcuterie
All drinks are half price and charcuterie boards are 25% off so we ordered a charcuterie board - Chef's selection of three cured meats served with chutney, marinated olives, nuts & rustic baguette.
board, burger, steak, smoked fish, salads, and even fondue. The food is really great there, and the prices seemed reasonable for the quality.
At least our dinner conversation didn't revolve around the Great Moose Hunt! (Still not a moose to be seen)
Instead it changed to Pieter's Great Bear Hunt - thanks to Jay. Pieter mentioned they didn't have bear in the Netherlands except in a bear preserve called "The Bear Forest" in Ouwehand Zoo. The last known wild brown bear was seen in the Netherlands around 1000 AD so Pieter wanted to see a wild bear. At which point Jay piped up "Here's the gal you need to talk to! She helped raise bear cubs! Even had a bear den in her backyard when she owned her resort!"
We'd very wisely bought a couple of bottles of wine during Happy Hour to take back to the lodge with us so the four of us spent the rest of the evening relaxing by the pool. Talking about my bear exploits at Pieter's insistence.
DAY 7 - DEPART JASPER
We were transferred back to the train station to board the train, leaving Jasper and the Canadian Rockies behind.
Heading into the Canadian Praries
We settled into life on the train. There was no Internet access during much of the trip, which was a refreshing change of pace in that people actually SOCIALIZED with one another.
What does one do on a train where you don't have Internet access? We'd sit in the dome car chatting while watching the scenery, there was a game car where we'd play cribbage and board games together, we did have a TV in our cabin with prerecorded movies to watch (although we seldom watched it), and the train staff go above and beyond to ensure you have a good experience.
They host trivia and Bingo games in the game cars and I have to admit, Anna and I really got into the Bingo games. Prizes are Canadian souvenirs.
And there are other hosted events, many of which involve alcohol.
When you depart from Vancouver, Toronto, and Jasper, the staff organize a champagne departure toast. They also have daily beer and or wine tastings where you can get a chance to sample local brews.
Honestly though, the best way to spend your time is watching the scenery roll by. One thing I loved about the train ride is that the staff will come on the intercom and give visitors information about any points of interest you pass through. The train will even slow down at some scenic spots, like Pyramid Falls in Alberta.
Alberta's Pyramid Falls
And The Great Moose Hunt was still going strong. We'd seen elk, bighorn sheep. etc. but no moose yet and the natives were getting restless. I had to laugh when Jay and Pieter decided to take matters into their own hands and took one of my Canadian souvenir Bingo prizes to remedy The Great Moose Hunt dilemma and the fact we hadn't seen a single moose.
The natives were growing restless so Jay and Pieter decided to take things into their own hands with the Great Moose Hunt. They took one of my Bingo prizes, propped it in the train window and shouted "THERE'S A MOOSE!"
STAMPEDE!
I'm glad we didn't get the living snot beat out of us. LOL Everyone laughed thank heavens.
DAY 8 - CANADIAN PRARIES
We made our way across the undulating plains of the Prairie provinces — Saskatchewan and Manitoba. Fields of green and gold stretch endlessly under an immense blue sky. When you look out the window, you spot rustic barns and small farming towns.
What surprised me is the number of residents of these small farming communities that would come down to the tracks to wave to the passing train - kids and adults alike!
A small farm typical of the Canadian Prairies
During the night we'd crossed over into the province of Ontario and into the rugged landscape of the Canadian Shield - ancient exposed rock, boreal forest and countless lakes with fishing cabins dotting its small islands.
We were in moose and bear territory so Pieter got to see his bear.
And finally, there it was! A moose cow beside the tracks. BAZINGA! I could now put the fear of a passenger no moose mutiny behind me.
I'd be willing to bet that was the most photographed moose in Ontario's history.
DAY 10 - ARRIVE IN TORONTO
Photo credit: Urlabs Guru
We'd decided to spend a couple of days in Toronto as part of our trip and as luck would have it, so had Pieter and Anna so the four of us toured Toronto together. We decided to go on a free walking tour of Toronto, beginning at St. Lawrence, so Pieter and Anna could see downtown Toronto - #2 on their bucket list. This is an excellent tour and they're conducted in both English and Spanish. Jose and his fellow guides are extremely knowledgeable about Toronto and it was obvious they were very passionate about their city.
On this tour you'll see St. Lawrence Market, the Gooderham Building, Berczy Park, Brookfield Place, the PATH, the financial district, City Hall, Nathan Phillips Square, and CF Toronto Eaton Center.
The tour lasts approximately 2.5 hours.
Pieter and Anna also wanted to see the CN Tower - but not necessarily climb the 1,766 steps to the top.
CN Tower
I'd been to the Tower before and we hadn't yet eaten lunch so suggested we eat at the 360 Restaurant, which would then include our admission to the different levels of the Tower, all the way to The Top.
The 360 Restaurant is equal parts steakhouse, seafood restaurant and wine bar offering prix fixe and a la carte menus which highlight regional Canadian specialties.
I should explain here that to view the different levels of the Tower requires different admission tickets. Rather than purchase Premier tickets at $95 per person, if you eat at the 360 Restaurant, ordering $75 per person, you get the equivalent of a Premier ticket.
So we ordered the 2 course prix fixe that fulfilled that $75 per person requirement and we made lunch our main meal of that day.
A note here: After learning what was on Pieter's and Anna's bucket list, I'd investigated whether or not it would be worth it for each of us to buy a Toronto City Pass that would save us 38% each on 5 attractions in Toronto - including the CN Tower.
They wanted to see 4 of the 5 attractions offered on the City Pass so we each bought one.
RIPLEY'S AQUARIUM OF CANADA
Photo credit: Ripley's Aquarium
After lunch it was off to Ripley's Aquarium of Canada. There are two levels to the aquarium, packed with things to see and do: Canadian Waters, Shoreline Gallery, Kelp Forest, Rainbow Reef, Dangerous Lagoon, Discovery Centre, the Gallery, the Ray Bay, Planet Jellies, Life Support Systems, and Dragons exhibits.
The Aquarium holds over 20,000 varieties of aquatic animals and contains North America’s longest underwater viewing tunnel with more than 5.7 million liters of water.
The Aquarium is located at the base of CN Tower at 288 Bremer Blvd., Toronto.
We also made a stop at Dundas Square's "Little Canada", a miniature representation of Canadian landmarks and cities, all presented with a whimsical sense of humor. Not only are the scenes beautifully rendered, the details are beyond incredible with each one-inch figurine uniquely made.
I think Pieter and Anna liked Litte Canada more than anything else in Toronto.
Look out for the snowmobiler who stopped too suddenly in Quebec City, the building debris that landed on top of a car (with the one-inch tall owner holding his head in dismay), and the three cyclists who are the real source of power behind the Niagara hydroelectric station. Accurate miniature landmarks are mixed with entertaining vignettes throughout.
A crowd favorite is the Château Laurier Hotel in the Ottawa section. One of the classic CP hotels complete with Gothic architecture and cars pulling up to check in, the side of the hotel is cut away and every room has a different story. Film buffs will want to look out for the final scene from 2001: A Space Odyssey, The Shawshank Redemption, and the hallway from The Shining.
All the scenes cycle through day and night so, for example, in Ottawa you get to see the fireworks over Parliament Hill on Canada Day and in Mont St. Anne you see the night skiers with the slopes lit up. In addition to the exhibit, you can see the workshop where they are working on the figurines and you get an appreciation of the artistry. They also show the electronics behind the scenes, controlling the vehicles or the cyclists.
Finally, they have something called a “Littleization Station” where you can get figurines made of yourself in a variety of sizes from one inch up. These are not your average Lego figures—they're beautifully detailed from the facial expression down to the buttons on your clothing. You stand in a small chamber surrounded by cameras where they take your picture from all angles and create a 3-D rendering which they can then sculpt in true color. Pieter and Anna had one made of themselves as a souvenir of their trip.
While miniature, it’s not small. It spans 45,000 sq. ft – that’s two hockey rinks!
Save $4 per ticket when you book a timed ticket online in advance.
Little Canada is located at 10 Dundas Street East, Toronto.
During our stay in Toronto we also visited the Toronto Zoo as Pieter wanted to see the difference between our zoos and theirs in Holland.
TORONTO ZOO
Home to over 3,000 animals, the Toronto Zoo is committed to connecting people, animals and conservation science to fight extinction.
Besides the zoo animals, there's a Zoomobile tram, Conservation Carousel, Splash Island splash pad, Virtual Reality Theater, TundraAir ride, Gorilla Climb Ropes Course, Greenhouse, Face Painting, Kangaroo Walk-Through, Kids Zoo, Serengeti Camp, and even Pyjama Party Overnights.
Ticket information here. You can also download a Toronto Zoo Experience App here.
The Toronto Zoo is located in Rouge National Urban Park, just north of Highway 401 at 2000 Meadowvale Road, Toronto (Exit 389)
HARBOR TOUR
We took a relaxing Harbor Tour on the Oriole, a two-level Great Lakes steam ship replica, or Showboat, a smaller version of the majestic paddle wheel riverboat.
Both outdoor and indoor seating are available. The tour lasts 1 hour.
Lively commentary on Toronto’s history, character, sites, stories and more is provided by an onboard live narrator.
We cruised past the CN Tower, HTO Park, Rogers Centre, Redpath Sugar Factory, Sugar Beach, and more.
Board the boat along Toronto Harborfront Centre, a revitalized area along Lake Ontario offering fun activities and interesting places to see.
All too soon it was time for the four of us to part ways and return home. We all agreed our rail trip across Canada had been the trip of a lifetime.
You don't have to mortgage the house to take a rail trip like this. Just downgrade from Priority to either Sleeper Class or Economy on the train and/or choose a shorter trip package. Winter excursions are by far the most economical to book.