My sister Barb and her husband, Dave are globetrotters. So for their wedding anniversary they decided to take a trip to Hawaii and they very graciously invited me to go along - despite the fact I'd just broken my ankle so was in a clunky, heavy leg immobilizer and was still in considerable pain at times so couldn't participate in some of the activities Barb had planned.
I think that may have influenced my take on Hawaii, although in speaking with others since, it seems you either love Hawaii and can't wait to return or you're like me...MEH! Ok seen it, no desire to return. The islands are also uber expensive and there are other places I can visit far more cheaply.
We visited Maui and Oahu, basing ourselves on Maui in the Kaanapali region. My sister's not only a globetrotter but also a discount diva like I am, so she did an excellent job of planning the trip while keeping costs reasonable.
Flying into Maui
We flew to Seattle, stayed a night in Seattle, then boarded Hawaiian Airlines for Maui the next morning.
I have to say I was really impressed with Hawaiian Airlines and it's hard to impress me with anything relating to airlines these days. What a class act! Other U.S. airlines should take their cue from Hawaiian Airlines.
Photo credit: Hawaiian Airlines
There is no "cattle class" even in Economy.
Flight attendants were superb at treating their passengers like actual people and providing first class service.
Unlike most other carriers, I was actually physically comfortable in my seat, even with my clunky leg immobilizer on.
It was a thoroughly enjoyable flight start to finish.
I give Hawaiian Airlines 5 stars out of 5.
NEGOTIATING THE MAUI AIRPORT
Maui has three airports, but only one, Kahului Airport (OGG), has facilities to accommodate direct flights from the U.S. mainland.
Kahului Airport is located between Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains, three miles east of the town of Kahului. The airport services domestic overseas and interisland commercial service, and commuter/air taxi and general aviation operations, including helicopter operations.
Kahului Airport
Main Terminal Rotunda
After you reach the central building, take the escalator, stairs, or elevator down one level to the baggage claim area.
Just before you reach baggage claim, you’ll pass the airport greeting area. If you’ve arranged a lei greeting or car service that meets you at the baggage claim, you’ll find them either here or in the baggage claim area.
Find your bags on the luggage conveyor belt that displays your flight number. There’s no need to rush — it can take a while for luggage to start coming out of the baggage claim chute. Hopefully not long enough that the birds start nesting in it.
Once you’ve collected your bags, head to the designated spot for your chosen mode of transportation.
AGRICULTURAL ITEMS
Airline passengers are prohibited from entering or departing from OGG with certain agricultural items, which may harbor pests or disease. As such, passengers may be subject to inspection prior to landing at or departing from Kahului Airport.
Incoming airline passengers arriving at OGG airport must declare plants, animals, and agricultural items prior to leaving airport grounds. Your airline will distribute and collect the required declaration form while in-flight, prior to landing on the island. It only takes a couple of minutes to fill the form out.
HERE'S WHERE TO GO TO FIND YOUR RIDE
Rideshare: If you’re booking a ride with a rideshare company such as Uber, Lyft, or locally based holoholo, Kahului Airport has set aside a designated zone for such pickups. From the baggage claim area, walk to the curbside pickup area and turn right. Look for the rideshare pickup signs. You’ll find the rideshare pickup area where the road bends.
Rental car: To pick up a car rental from an onsite rental car agency, you’ll need to make your way to CONRAC — Kahului Airport’s Consolidated Rent-A-Car Facility. It’s an 8-minute walk to the center, but most visitors find taking the tram more convenient. From the baggage claim area, walk across the road to the tram pickup area. Step aboard the green airport tram to make the short journey to the CONRAC building and pick up your car.
Green airport tram
Curbside pickup: If you’ve arranged for a friend or car service to pick you up curbside, simply walk out of the baggage claim area and onto the sidewalk. Curbside pickup lies directly outside of the baggage claim area.
Shuttle and taxi service: Both the Maui Airport Shuttle Service counter and taxi booth are located at the baggage claim area.
INTERNET ACCESS
The airport offers free WiFi access when using your own device. Connect to the network OGG Free Wi-Fi.
LUGGAGE CARTS
If you need a luggage cart, they're available near the baggage claim area for a fee.
Be aware that you will share your airport space with birds.
You will see them all over the airport.
Hawaiians must have a thing about birds because we saw them wandering freely everywhere we went - even flocks of chickens strolling down the middle of highways.
So don't panic if you see birds sharing your departure gate waiting area with you.
Accommodations
On Maui, hotel rooms will cost you between $800 and $1000+ per night, generally speaking. The closer you are to water the higher the price per night becomes.
My sister was very smart in the way she booked our accommodations, renting directly from private condominium owners. At least one of the two condos she booked had a full kitchen so we could cook ourselves to keep food costs to a minimum. (A gallon of milk alone cost $8)
We stayed at two different sets of condos. The first was an up/down unit arrangement that even had laundry facilities.
The second set of condos were in a resort-like setting with tropical gardens lining the walkways, a swimming pool, a large lawn area where you could lie in a lawn chair and view the ocean, and an on-site restaurant.
Both of our units were on the same floor and their unit had a private patio where we could eat our meals.
There was also a large lot where you could park for free.
Attractions
Trilogy's Discover Ka'anapali Tour
I'm the adventurous sort. Barb and Dave are not. This was the one activity I got to plan so wanted to push them out of their comfort zone and get them to try snorkeling and SNUBA, something they'd never done before.
All the way to the boat Dave expressed his concerns he would get attacked by a shark or drown...I assured him he wouldn't do either. Barb was sidelined with a cold and me with the leg and a chest wall injury so were prohibited from SNUBA, although we could snorkel.
When Dave surfaced from his SNUBA excursion he was like WHOA! THAT WAS FANTASTIC! and the divemaster had quickly gotten him comfortable. I even bought him a special T shirt I was so proud of him for overcoming his fears. Even snorkeling was great...colorful fish, sea turtles, sea urchins, even a moray eel.
The Trilogy boats are large catamarans with 2 decks, upper and lower. Yes, they have restrooms.
The catamarans look brand new and guests are invited to help the crew raise the sails.
A homemade breakfast of cinnamon rolls was served as soon as we got aboard and enroute. After snorkeling a really delicious lunch was served - grilled chicken, rice, salad and bread.
Trilogy offers a variety of different tours that aren't just snorkeling or SNUBA either. They have a sunset dinner sail, a whale watching trip, a sunset sail and more.
THE ROAD TO HANA
The Road to Hana is an absolute MUST DO! However, you want a guided tour on this one! You don't want to attempt to drive the Road to Hanna yourself unless you've driven it before. Many portions of it, including the bridges are only large enough for one car and it's chock full of switchbacks with steep cliffs to the water below.
So do yourself a favor, get on a guided van tour and let the driver do the driving so you can enjoy the wonderful scenery along the way. This is an all day trip, by the way.
You want to start early morning to complete the trail by dark. It takes around 7 hours to complete the Road to Hana. If you're going to drive the Road yourself, you don't want to plan too many stops. If you want to do a lot of stops plan on spending the night in Hana and completing the trip the next day.
If you're going to take on the challenge of driving yourself, download the awesome Gypsy guide app for $4.99, that guides you through the road and provides in-depth commentary and suggestions on all the different stops that you can make on your way there.
We booked a tour company that served us a very good breakfast and then we were on our way in a large passenger van. The tour guide was skillful at navigating the road while giving us information about the different things we were seeing. More on the tour company we used at the end of this article.
There are a few stops you do want to make. One of them is at Aunty Sandy's for some fresh baked, hot banana bread.
Palapala Ho'omau Church is another stop our tour made. It's the site of Charles Lindbergh's grave and a quaint little church. The flowers alone in the adjacent park were breathtaking and you can picnic there.
For DIY drivers: To get there, drive eight miles south of Hana just past the 41 mile marker and turn left when you see a sign for Maui Stables. Stay to the left and you'll see the church a little further down the road. When you arrive, make sure to take a look at the window painting inside the church, which shows a Polynesian Christ dressed in feather capes that were normally reserved for Hawaii's highest chiefs.
If you're on a guided tour, your tour vehicle will most likely stop at this church.
WATERFALLS YOU CAN SWIM IN
Seven Sacred Pools (‘Ohe’o Gulch)
The Seven Sacred Pools, also known as the ‘Ohe’o Gulch, is a wonderful spot to explore. Located at the heart of Maui’s Haleakala National Park, the Seven Sacred Pools are a series of waterfalls that are truly magical. Hike on the 2-mile Pipiwai Trail and witness a breathtaking bamboo jungle and dramatic cliffs. Then, bathe in the two lower pools and find a nice spot to share a picnic with your loved ones!
Tip: Obey the signs and avoid swimming if you don’t see any other swimmers in the water!
Upper Puohokamoa Falls
Located near mile marker 12 on the Road to Hana, Upper Puohokamoa Falls is a real gem worth a stop. The falls are just two minutes from the road, so you can take a break from your road trip and go for a nice swim. If you have more time and are feeling adventurous, make your way up the left side of the falls and hike to some other hidden pools. If you visit during the high season, you will even see gorgeous ginger blooms.
Waikamoi Stream and Waterfalls
If you are on a quest to discover the most stunning places on the island of Maui, then Waikamoi Stream should be on your list! The scenery is out of this world, with black rock walls covered in exotic plants. Also located on the Road to Hana, Waikamoi Stream is a popular spot you don’t want to miss. It’s the second-largest waterfall and pool on the island. You can easily find this heavenly place near marker 10. Swim to the cave or sit on the rocks right under the waterfall and let the stream fall over you!
Waiʻānapanapa State Park
The Lava Tube
Thanks to its stunning scenery, Wai’anapanapa State Park is one of the most famous Road to Hana Stops. Here, you’ll find a lava tube, a black sand beach, sea arches, a blow hole, camping sites, and hiking trails with panoramic views of the East Maui coast.
Our tour was the Hana and Beyond Tour.
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Departs From: Maui – Kahului, Maui – Kihei/Wailea (South), Maui – Lahaina (West), Maui – Ma’alaea (Central)
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Duration: 9-11 hours depending on pickup/dropoff location
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Price: $210
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Included in the price: A choice of sub sandwiches or veggie wraps, snacks, water and soft drinks are also included and available on tour throughout the day.
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Full day tour, roughly 9-11 hours, duration depends on pickup/dropoff location
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Complimentary pick-up & return from all major resorts and condos
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9 to 14 passenger vans for the group tour (private tours available)
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Enjoy a scenic drive through lush rainforest, through Hana Town, and over ‘Ohe’o Gulch (Seven Sacred Pools) to circumnavigate the base of Haleakala
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Observe various waterfalls including Wailua Falls
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Stops can include (weather dependent) Keanae Peninsula, Halfway to Hana fruit stand (banana bread), Pua’a Ka’a State Wayside Park, and the black sand beach at Waianapanapa State Park
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All ages welcome!
They are a Native Hawaiian family-owned and operated business with tour guides that are from Hana. So you get a truly local view of the stops along the Hana highway as well as great stories, education, and more.
Hana & Beyond also provides only Road to Hana tours, so they are hyper-focused on creating exceptional experiences for one specific tour.
Their Road to Hana tour is a full-circle tour, so you get to see sights past Hana. The tour runs roughly 10 hours and you’ll be in a van that holds 9-14 guests.
While they do offer private tours, the tours are not customizable. They provide breakfast and lunch as well as snacks and drinks throughout the day.
Our stop for lunch was at The Bamboo Hale at Hana Farms.
It's open air dining surrounded by gardens.
Their Harvest Salad was very good, every ingredient in it having been grown in the farm.
Their artisan wood fired pizzas are equally as good, all ingredients being grown on the farm.
LAHAINA
I'm so glad I got to see Lahaina before it was levelled to the ground by fire.
Lahaina after the fire
Lahaina before the fire
Lahaina was famous for its picturesque waterfront, charming historic buildings, and lively Front Street, which was lined with shops, restaurants, and galleries. The town offered an exciting mix of history and natural beauty. In addition to reducing much of the region to rubble, the blaze also scorched the town’s beloved banyan tree, which had just turned 150 years old.
Thankfully in the years since the fire, the tree is healing and sprouting new growth.
And from what I've read since the fire, Lahaina is rising from the ashes and rebuilding but I'm not sure exactly what has been rebuilt and what hasn't.
Black Rock Torch Lighting & Cliff Diving Ceremony
Each night, The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa in Kaanapali shares a treasured piece of Hawaiian history with the island—a traditional cliff dive or lele kawa - an elusive ceremony.
The Hawaiians were the first people to do cliff diving. Chief Kahekili, a monumental king of Maui and Oahu during the 1700s, popularized lele kawa and gained respect from his warriors by being one of the first to jump off the lava flow just outside of the resort’s 23-acre property of present-day.
Legend said he dove heights of 200 to 300 feet, but his dive at Puu Kekaa, commonly called Black Rock, was significant because others were afraid to jump at this eerie location. Why eerie? Hawaiians believe Black Rock is a portal to the ancestral realm, that the deceased jump into the afterlife there.
During the 18th century, only royalty could step onto the pristine area of beach adjacent to Puu Kekaa. Today the significance of the 16-foot dive from here is obscured by the throngs of visitors who frequent the area to indulge in some of the best snorkeling the island has to offer. However, Kainalu the divers strive to keep the history alive each night by recreating Chief Kahekili’s famous actions.
Twice a week, a cliff diver begins the ceremony by blowing the conch shell to the four directions of the earth. Then he imagines himself making the offering to the gods as he sprints barefoot up the jagged, volcanic rock, lights the torches that trace the westernmost point of lava flow on Maui, and ultimately dives headfirst into the abyss.
The Sheraton provides live music at the Cliff Dive Grill before and after the ceremony, with guided historical narration in between. The sunset ceremony lasts 10 minutes and costs nothing to attend.
2605 Kaanapali Parkway, Lahaina, Maui
Experience Outrigger Canoes
I had to sit this one out due to injury but Barb and Dave went and loved every minute of it.
Join an outrigger canoe tour with Ali’i Maui Outrigger Canoes for a taste of authentic Hawaiian culture. This fun activity combines exciting paddling with stunning ocean views. It’s suitable for all ages and skill levels.
You’ll not only paddle, but also learn about the ocean’s significance to the Hawaiian people.
Safety is a priority, and life jackets are provided. Each canoe holds a small group.
Address: Ali’i Maui Outrigger Canoe, Lahaina
Maui Ocean Center
I've seen a lot of aquariums in my day but the Maui Ocean Center was definitely one of the best of them.
When you enter the aquarium building you'll come upon the LIving Reef exhibit which is phenomenal and includes just about any type of tropical fish, coral, anemones, etc.
The Open Ocean Exhibit features over 50 species of fish, including various sharks and rays, with a regularly updated population. A unique underwater tunnel allows visitors a 360-degree view, providing a close encounter with the ocean’s biodiversity. The exhibit includes Hawaiian broad stingrays, known as “lupe,” and diverse shark and fish species.This was my favorite part of the aquarium.
The Ocean Center also offers a variety of immersive experiences like diving with sharks, a behind the scenes tour, Aquar-Om yoga, Hawaiian culture and plant tour, snorkeling tours and a sleepover with sharks experience.
Visit their website for more information
OAHU - PEARL HARBOR
When you arrive at the front entrance to Pearl Harbor you will go through a ridiculous amount of security. Once inside, walk nearly straight ahead to the Ticket & Information booth. You will pay for your admission there and will get a wristband that shows you've paid your admission so you can go in and out of Pearl without having to go through security every time.
At the Audio Tour booth right next door to the Ticket & Information booth pick up an audio tour of Pearl because there are no tour guides at Pearl unless you've privately hired your own tour guide. (With the audio tour available you don't need to do that.)
Then walk to your left to the Exhibits Gallery. There are two large galleries containing a ton of WWII exhibits, most pertaining to Pearl Harbor itself. Explanations of them are included in the audio tour.
After you've toured the exhibits, walk over to the Memorial Theater. You'll be required to watch a short movie about the bombing of Pearl Harbor before you can board the ferry to take you to the Arizona Memorial. It must not been a very memorable film as I don't remember a single thing that was in it.
When you pay your admission at the ticket counter you'll be given a specific time the ferry you'll take to the Arizona will be assigned to you.
View of the Arizona from the bow of the Missouri
Let me say here that my critique of Pearl Harbor is in no way meant as any kind of reflection on the men who lost their lives there. My uncle was at Pearl Harbor when it was bombed, he was a doctor treating the injured so I heard all of the horror stories firsthand. I have the utmost respect for the many who lost their lives in the bombing of Pearl Harbor.
I was underwhelmed by Pearl Harbor as a whole...
but especially of the Arizona Memorial. Maybe my expectations were too high as I thought there would be an air of reverence among those visiting the memorial. There wasn't. There was an air of tourists on vacation.
The only thing you can see of the Arizona is the hatch at left.
The stench of leaking fuel is almost overwhelming. Even the inside of the memorial is lacking, containing virtually nothing but a wall engraved with the names of those who lost their lives on the Arizona.
1177 men lost their lives on the Arizona and this was the best we could do to honor them?
It just seemed like there should have been more.
The interior of the Arizona Memorial
I actually got far more about the Arizona from watching the video below:
After visiting the Arizona, we headed over to the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum. This video will give you a better tour than me describing the Bowfin to you and will give you a visual of what the Bowfin interior looked like.
Then we headed over to the USS Missouri. I was still in my leg immobilizer and touring the Bowfin had pretty much worn me out and escalated my pain level so I sat out the tour of the Missouri because so much climbing up and down was involved.
Barb, Dave and their friends they'd met at Pearl thoroughly enjoyed the Arizona though.
While they toured the Missouri, I grabbed some lunch at more of a snack tent than an actual restaurant.
It will take you a full day to get through Pearl Harbor and see everything.
There are no ferries between the major Hawaiian Islands. The extreme ocean conditions, such as high winds, waves, and currents, make regular ferry service difficult and potentially dangerous. The Hawaii Superferry, which had planned on running routes between Oahu, Maui, Big Island, and Kauai, is no longer offering service due to a Hawaii Supreme Court ruling.
You must fly between the islands. These are the flights currently running between Maui and Oahu.
Dining
As I said, we did most of our own cooking. But there were a couple of places we ate out.
FEAST AT LELE
The Maui fires caused the Feast At Lele to suspend operations. According to their website, they planned on resuming operations but 2+ years later that hasn't happened. But I'll include it in case it does resume operations in the future as it was the best luau on Maui.
The luau was held right on the beach and you got to see the sun set as you dined by torchlight.
When we arrived, a kukui nut lei was placed around our neck. Known as a haku lei, a kukui nut lei is made of nuts harvested from the kukui tree and they symbolize peace, protection and enlightenment.
Historically, these leis were worn by Hawaiian royalty and were considered symbols of social status and protection.
Kukui nut lei
The different cuisines served matched the different cultures of dancers you were watching and the food was served to your table. The food was different but very tasty!
The grand finale of the luau was the fire dancer. We got a chance to speak to him after the luau and discovered he was a real royal prince!
MAMA'S FISH HOUSE
Mama's Fish House is a once-in-a-lifetime, over-the-top dining experience so we celebrated my sister's and bro-in-law's anniversary there. When I say "over-the-top" I mean never before have I been in a restaurant where the minute you set your napkin on the table for any reason, your waiter is right there to refold your napkin.
The wait list for reservations at Mama's is 3-6 months long so if you're planning a meal at Mama's get your reservations in months in advance.
Everything was so fresh that if you order seafood they even tell you when it was caught and who caught it. But we'll start with the appetizer...Tahitian Ceviche (Ono marinated in lime and coconut milk in a fresh coconut.)
I'm an admitted Ceviche junkie but...EUPHORIA in a coconut shell!
If the ceviche was the only thing I ate at Mama's that night I would've left happy. Flavors that were mind boggling. Bravo!
Mama’s famous Stuffed Mahimahi (stuffed with lobster, crab, and baked in a macadamia nut crust) is what put Mama's on the map so of course, I had to try it.
Normally I'm not a big fan of fish but the stuffed Mahimahi was out of this world. Our waiter told me that my Mahimahi was caught fresh that morning by local fisherman Kamaki Everett outside his homeport of Hana Bay.(My undying gratitude to you, Kamaki Everett!) The Mahimahi is stuffed with lobster, crab, and baked in a macadamia nut crust. It's served with rice, and a couple spears of asparagus as well as a lemon wedge.
The chef even sent out complimentary dessert to Barb and Dave in honor of their anniversary!
The stunning views of Kū‘au Bay on the North Shore invite you into the restaurant. It's more like an oasis than beachfront restaurant. There's an upscale inn connected to the restaurant as well.
Mama's Fish House is a definite MUST DO if you're visiting Maui.
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Money Savings Tips for Maui
RENT A CONDO
Opt for a condo instead of a fancy resort. You can share a 2 bedroom condo with friends for about half the cost of one room in a resort. Just make sure they're licensed, permitted vacation rentals.
EAT IN
Get a rental unit with a kitchen and make your own meals. Dining out in Hawaii is horribly expensive and you can save a lot by simply making 2 of your 3 meals per day.
RENT AN ECONOMY CAR
Gas is more expensive in Hawaii than most other states, and you'll be driving a lot. Save on gas and rental fees by renting an economy car.
WATCH AIRLINE PRICES
Sometimes airlines offer incredible last minute deals to Hawaii. Sign up for their emails to alert you to these last minute deals.
PLAN PLENTY OF BEACH DAYS
The beach is free and many activities are affordable. Snorkeling gear can be rented for a small daily fee, allowing you to enjoy Maui's underwater beauty without spending a lot.
BOOK THE BEST ACTIVITIES AT THE BEST PRICES
Don't spend a bundle on a helicopter ride. If you want to see Maui from above, spend a fraction you would on a flight and take a bike ride down Haleakala.