I literally planned this itinerary as we drove down the road. Have laptop, will travel! We didn't even know what city in Maine we were heading to, so I decided on Portland. (Maine's largest city) We'd spend our first three days there.
Day 1 - Portland
On the advice of the locals we drove to Becky's Diner for breakfast. (The place was packed! Including lots of locals) Becky's truly is a diner with booths against one wall and counter seating on the other side of the room.
Can't even begin to tell you how good the food was! I had the Lobster Benedict.
Lobster Benedict
So my travel partner in crime just got his new RV he'd been waiting months for. I'm in the shower and my phone is ringing off the hook every 3 seconds. I finally give it up and get out of the shower to answer it...maybe it's an emergency....
"It came!" Jay shouts.
"What came?" I ask, standing there naked, dripping water everywhere.
"The new bus! I just picked it up! Let's take a trip and break it in!"
"Now? Right this second?"
" Yeah!"
(Men. Gotta love 'em when they get a new toy.)
"And just where would be going?" I'm stupid enough to ask.
"Hang on, let me grab an atlas..."
I hear him flipping pages.
"Maine! My finger landed on Maine. Hurry up, get packed! I'm on my way over." Click!
(His finger landed on Maine?)
This is how our road trip to Maine came about.
I will say however, that his new RV 'toy' was gorgeous, complete with rear end garage you could haul a car in.
And so that same afternoon, off we went, bound for Maine...
(Oh the joys of being retired!)
Lobster Swiss Omelet
Jay ordered the Lobster Swiss Omelet and said it was the best food he'd had during the entire 5 day trip.
Food? Out of this world and HUGE portions.
Service? Excellent service from a friendly fantastic staff.
Price? $ Unbelievable (and they didn't skimp on the lobster, the lobster chunks were huge)
As fast as they turned one table over, more customers would fill it.
Becky's serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.
390 Commercial St., Portland
PORTLAND HEAD LIGHT
After breakfast we drove over to Cape Elizabeth to see Portland Head Light.
As you look out over Portland Harbor and Casco Bay, you can also spot four more lighthouse towers. To your left (North) is the Spring Point Ledge Light, which was built in 1897 and is located at the end of a rock breakwater. Directly in front of you is the Ram Island Ledge Light, which was constructed in 1905 and is now powered by solar energy. During storms, the waves crash over the top of its lantern room. About 10 miles out, and visible only on a clear day, is the Halfway Rock Light Station, which was first lit in 1871 and is located halfway between Cape Elizabeth and Cape Small. If you look to your right (South) you'll see the Cape Elizabeth Light, one of two towers that were originally built. The remaining operating tower was first lit in 1874.
The Wave - Photo by: Benjamin Williamson
Fort Williams Park spans over 90 acres and offers a wide range of recreational activities for visitors. You can enjoy a picnic, fly kites, walk along pathways, explore the rocky beach, tour the Arboretum, take a walk on the cliffside loop, or explore the 1 1/2 acre Children's Garden.
Before your visit, you can print out a scavenger hunt or pick it up at the Greeter’s Shed, located in Central Parking. Three food vendors – Gorgeous Gelato, Bite Into Maine, and C-Salt offer a variety of delicious food options, such as lobster rolls, sandwiches, salads, and gelato.
Park staff lead free walking tours at 11 AM daily, weather permitting. The 35-minute talk along the one-mile Cliff Walk Trail includes eight stops featuring discussions on fort structures, native plants, shipwrecks, and lighthouses. Interested visitors should gather at the Greeter's Shed in Central Parking. Tours are limited to 25 people and are available on a first-come, first-served basis. They are not recommended for those with mobility issues.
The Fort Williams Museum and Cape Elizabeth History Center are located in the former Bachelor Officers’ Quarters at the end of the Parade Ground near the baseball field. Local and military history exhibits are on display for the public to view. Check their website for hours.
There's also the Keeper's house containing a museum that tells the history of Portland Head Light through a variety of exhibits that display different artifacts and documents, navigational aids, Fresnel lenses, models, and photographs.
Adjacent to the light house is Fort Williams Park, a 90 acre tract offering a wide range of recreational activities for visitors. You can enjoy a picnic, fly kites, walk along pathways, explore the rocky beach, tour the Arboretum, take a walk on the cliffside loop, or explore the 1 1/2 acre Children's Garden. Before your visit, you can print out a scavenger hunt or pick it up at the Greeter’s Shed, located in Central Parking. Three food vendors – Gorgeous Gelato, Bite Into Maine, and C-Salt offer a variety of delicious food options, such as lobster rolls, sandwiches, salads, and gelato.
Park staff lead free walking tours at 11 AM daily, weather permitting. The 35-minute talk along the one-mile Cliff Walk Trail includes eight stops featuring discussions on fort structures, native plants, shipwrecks, and lighthouses. Interested visitors should gather at the Greeter's Shed in Central Parking. Tours are limited to 25 people and are available on a first-come, first-served basis. They are not recommended for those with mobility issues.
Being big kids ourselves, we were anxious to check out the Children's Garden, especially the Wildflower Garden.
Photo credit: Friends of Fort Williams Park
Click here to download the Presentation Plan for the Children’s Garden (pdf).
Click here to download the Children’s Garden Plant List (pdf).
This 1-1/2 acre garden is designed to let children explore their relationship with nature. If you have kids, you might want to make this garden one of your road trip stops.
We also explored the Japanese Garden in Washington Park.
Parking near the Garden fills up quickly, especially on weekends and sunny days. Instead of dealing with limited, metered parking, consider taking public transit! Ride the MAX Blue or Red Line to the Washington Park MAX Station, then hop on the Washington Park Free Shuttle Loop to reach the Garden. You can also take TriMet Line 63 directly to Portland Japanese Garden.
TIPS FOR VISITING ON A BUDGET:
Plan your visit on one of the free access days tied to cultural festivals, such as the Cherry Blossom Festival or Moon Viewing Festival. Use public transit like the MAX Light Rail to save on parking fees and reduce travel costs. Take advantage of discounted admission if you qualify as a Portland resident, student, military personnel, or veteran by bringing valid ID. Visit with children under age 5 to benefit from their always free entry. Request a complimentary ticket through the garden’s community access program if financial constraints apply. Arrive early to ensure entry since free and discounted admission slots may be limited. Pack your own snacks to avoid higher prices at the garden’s tea house and gift shop.
(Stop at the Washington Public Library in Portland. They gave us free admission passes, although they don't do this on a consistent basis. It's hit or miss.)
TWO LIGHTS STATE PARK
As long as we were on Cape Elizabeth we decided to explore Two Lights State Park.
Opened in 1961, the park encompasses 41-acres of rocky headlands. Standing high above the rocky coast and rolling surf, visitors have sweeping views of Casco Bay and the open Atlantic.
The park’s name originated from the twin lighthouses located nearby at the end of Two Lights Road. Built in 1828, these were the first twin lighthouses on the coast of Maine.
Just a head's up: If you're going to explore this shoreline wear non-slip walking shoes and stay at least 20 feet back from the surf rolling in! Also bring warm clothing as ocean breezes cool off the park in the afternoon.
Picnic tables situated on the hills facing the ocean afford visitors spectacular views of the ocean while enjoying an afternoon barbecue or clambake.
Lobster Shack outdoor dining overlooking the ocean
Since the Lobster Shack was right there, we grabbed a couple of lobster rolls for lunch and ate at one of the outdoor picnic tables overlooking the ocean.
TIP: When a Maine food menu says an item is "Market Price" be sure to ask what the current market price is so that you'll know exactly what you're paying.
The Lobster Shack is located at 225 Two Lights Rd., Cape Elizabeth.
For the Park: Admission fees page
We spent the remainder of the day just exploring Two Lights State Park at a leisurely pace, then drove back to Portland to have dinner at Eventide Oyster Company. I absolutely DETEST oysters so I wasn't sure about this one even though Eventide came highly recommended. I needn't have worried, there were other menu items apart from oysters. I left Jay to the oyster shooters - a freshly shucked oyster followed by a shot of zhuzhed-up tequila.
In keeping with the Nor'easter spirit we ordered the New England Clam Bake: Steamers, mussels, lobster tail, potatoes, salt pork and a hard boiled egg nestled into a bed of rock seaweed. Served with drawn butter and nori vinaigrette. MARKET PRICE
Believe me, order the New England Clam Bake and you won't be leaving the table hungry!
Note that most of their seating is on a first come, firest served basis although reservations should be made for parties of 6 or more. 86 Middle Street, Portland
New England Clam Bake
Day 2 - Portland
OLD PORT DISTRICT
The cobblestone streets, mix of 19th-century brick architecture, fishing piers and hilly streets leading to the water create an authentic port atmosphere while shops, boutiques, galleries, restaurants and bars lend travel appeal that ranks amongst the best in New England. From an early morning walk through the quaint streets to experiencing the vibrant nightlife, the Old Port combines a small town feel with elements of a world class city. The location on the southeast side of the Portland peninsula, overlooking the wide mouth of the Fore River, makes for a cozy, scenic and charming oasis that feels like one's own discovery.
Today's Old Port has become the heart of an overall great city -- a blessing for locals and a must-see for any New England travelers.
I did find an inexpensive self guided Old Port audio tour for $7.75 per person here.
We went to Lil Chippy at 52 Washington Street in the Old Port district for lunch. A counter-service seafood restaurant specializing in fish & chips, Lil Chippy’s menu additionally features a round-up of “buddy” sandwiches including a Chicken Buddy, Lobster Buddy, Pea Falafel Buddy and cold snacks including a Bluefin Tuna Crudo, Tomato Salad and a Greens & Herbs. For the kiddos, a petite fish & chips and a chicken chips available. Desserts consist of the Canelé with berries and creme anglaise.
Tables are available inside and outside along the sidewalk. Bar seating also available.
Photo credit: Lil Chippy Chicken sandwich (left) Fish n Chips (right)
I ordered a Chicken Buddy and Jay had the fish 'n chips. Lil Chippy is nothing fancy but what they do, they do right! The food was excellent. $
We rested up the remainder of that afternoon because that evening we had a sunset cruise on Casco Bay scheduled after dinner, through Portland Discovery Land & Sea Tours.
Since we knew we'd be eating a ton of seafood during our trip, we decided to break things up a bit by having dinner at Leeward, which specializes in Italian cuisine.
Every aspect of our experience was sensational from the moment we stepped through the door.
The service is very personal and anticipatory, it was as though the waitstaff were watching and picking up on your every nuance. It's one of the very few restaurants I've seen where the staff worked as a team and well-oiled machine.
Even though the kitchen is open so you can watch them cook, the place was not noisy in spite of having a fairly large crowd.
We both ordered the shells with meat ragu, which was spectacular.
For dessert we ordered a dark chocolate tart, a dish of apricot bread pudding and a coffee,
Shells with meat ragu
Again, the dessert was stellar - and I don't usually like bread pudding all that much!
There are a few restaurants that are able to bring an elevated dining experience while keeping the casual, neighborhood-like vibe at the same time...but Leeward does it very successfully. I'd have to say it's one of the best restaurants in Portland in our book.
Following dinner we capped off the evening with a 1 hour 45 minute sunset cruise of the Portland Harbor and Casco Bay's lighthouses, islands and wildlife. On this cruise you can expect to see:
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Portland Head Light – Maine’s oldest lighthouse, commissioned by George Washington
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Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse – Unique caisson-style lighthouse with connecting breakwater
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Portland Breakwater Lighthouse – Elegant Greek-inspired structure nicknamed “Bug Light”
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Fort Gorges – Civil War-era granite fortress visible from Portland Harbor
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Liberty Ship Memorial – Historic tribute to Portland’s WWII shipbuilding legacy
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Casco Bay Islands – Scenic archipelago of islands scattered throughout the harbor
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Portland Skyline – Historic port city illuminated in evening light
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Commercial Waterfront – Working harbor transitioning from day to evening activity
Our guide Steve was both knowledgeable and entertaining.
We took advantage of a Groupon/Viator deal that was available at the time so saved 70% on the normal $54 per person fare - so paid $16.20 each for our boat tickets.
TIP: Currently Groupon is offering 20% off the trolley tour of Portland.
For your 411, Portland Discovery also does combination land/trolley and boat/water tours daily from April through October. Visit their website for more information.
The sunset cruise was the perfect end to the perfect day.
Day 3 - Portland
Photo credit: Casco Bay Lines
We grabbed our bikes and hopped the Casco Lines ferry to Peaks Island.
Photo credit: Peaks Island website
The ferry terminal is centrally located in Portland at the pier, 56 Commercial Street.
From the middle of June to the beginning of September, Casco Bay Lines operates a ferry to Peaks Island once an hour, beginning around 5 AM. The last ferry leaves the island close to midnight.
Unless you plan to only walk within a short distance from the ferry dock, you’ll need a way to travel throughout the island to see its many sites.
Traversing the island by bike is one of the best options. There are plenty of paved roads, and, for the most part, cycling is easy (not too many big hills).
If you own a bike and have it with you, you can take it on the ferry. But you can also rent one at Brad’s Bike Rental, steps away from the dock. (115 Island Avenue)
If you’re looking for an easier way to see the island, golf carts are also available to rent. Peaks Island Golf Cart Rentals (62 Island Avenue) and Mike’s Carts (1 Welch Street) offer rentals.
Peaks Island is tiny – only two miles long and one mile wide – making it relatively easy to get around.
If you're going to visit Peaks during the summer months peak season there's a couple of head's ups I need to give you.
The first is lack of public restrooms. There are currently three or four public restrooms on Peaks Island depending on the season, all but one in the Down Front area. There are two public restrooms located in the parking lot on your right when you disembark from the ferry. There is also a public restroom in the City of Portland’s Parks & Rec Community Center (aka the Library) on Island Ave. In September 2023 a new public toilet was installed at the entrance to Trott Littlejohn Park, at Upper A and Florida Avenues. Make sure you are not caught backshore needing to go — island trails are well-traveled, especially during the summer, and privacy is hard to find.
The second drawback is parking if you're going to visit Peaks in the peak summer season. There is a large parking lot next to the ferry landing but it's usually full during the summer. Unless you have mobility issues, the island is best enjoyed on foot or by bike. Bringing a car for the day is usually unnecessary, always expensive, and can be time-consuming, especially in the summer when rates are high and the lines are very, very long.
As many TripAdvisor reviewers have reported: “Let’s get right to the point, there is not much to see on Peaks Island except for the beautiful views and the quaintness of the island.”
If you like birding, walking, biking, kayaking, art, a little history and spectacular water views, you will find Peaks Island to be the perfect day trip.
Big-ticket shopping, thrills, or gourmet dining? Not so much. Not at all, actually.
We went expecting nothing...and I have to say, that's the best way to view Peaks Island. We went primarily to do nothing more than spend the day biking around the island. I think it's because we had no expectations that we enjoyed Peak Island and its 1000 residents as much as we did. (During peak season the island's population swells to between 2000 and 4000 so be aware of that.)
There are 2 public beaches on Peak's Island:
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SANDY BEACH is a charming sand beach located at the southwest tip of the island, accessible by a long wooden ramp. Kids can play at the shore, walk at low tide, swim or kayak to Catnip Island.
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CAIRN BEACH is located on the backshore. Children (and adults) spend hours here, building towers and
other feats of balance and engineering from the rocks and looking for lighthouses across the water. This is not a swimming beach.
Sandy Beach where swimming is allowed
We did bring our swim suits to take a dip at Sandy Beach to cool off after biking and enjoy the picnic lunch we'd brought along. Because we were just on the brink of the off season, we had nearly the entire beach to ourselves.
If you're into quirky attractions, stop in at the Umbrella Cover Museum.
This quirky and lighthearted stop celebrates the mundane with a collection of umbrella covers from around the world. It showcases hundreds of displays in a variety of exhibits and its founder, Nancy Hoffman is a hoot. So is the story of how she came to found her Umbrella Cover Museum.
Photo credit: Umbrella Cover Museum Founder Nancy Hoffman playing her accordian
According to Nancy, she had five or six umbrella covers she didn't know what to do with, so after stealing an umbrella cover from a department store, she decided to start a museum with them.
People flocked by the tens to her museum, the international press got wind of it and the rest is history. Nancy's museum became the #1 tourist attraction on Peaks Island.
(Told ya, don't come to Peaks with any high expectations! It truly IS the #1 attraction on Peaks!)
A museum tour takes about twenty minutes and includes prizes, interactive exhibits, and even a theme song!
Admission is by donation. The Umbrella Cover Museum is only open in the summer. Check the website for open hours.
GET A TOUR ON THE ISLAND
Peaks Island Tours offers a regular tour called The Spirit of Peaks Golf Tour. It’s a 75-minute ride showcasing the history of the island.
Special reservations can be made for two other tours – one that explores the island’s history on foot and the other, seen by golf cart, that showcases Peaks Island’s involvement in WWII as a military base.
Tours occur daily between the beginning of May through the end of October. Reservations are highly recommended. The cost per adult is $25.
One of the things you'll see is BATTERY STEELE.
Photo credit: Reagle / Creative Commons
Built in 1942 to protect Casco Bay from an attack, Battery Steele consists of fourteen acres on the eastern oceanside of the island. It was formerly part of the Peaks Island Military Reservation.
Visitors can walk among the concrete bunker remains and view the ocean from the lookout.
Battery Steele can be accessed from Florida Avenue, a short bike ride from the ferry.
TAKE A HIKE
Peaks Island has plenty of hiking trails with phenomenal photo ops.
Click here to see an excellent map of all the trails on Peaks Island.
After we spent the day exploring Peaks Island we took the ferry back to Portland and made dinner in the RV.
We were too tired to go out to dinner and had stopped at the little grocery store on Peaks to pick up some items to prepare a meal ourselves. Besides, someone had to break in the kitchen of that brand new, insanely expensive I'm sure, big honkin' RV.
Day 4 - Freeport & Brunswick
Tunes to travel by
Photos credit: Wanderlust Juicery
We were up early to drive the 30 minutes to Freeport, located on the shores of Casco Bay.
We stopped at Wanderlust Juicery for breakfast.
The name intrigued us so we stopped - and were glad we did. Delicious and healthy!
Wanderlust Juicery is a locally owned juice bar that's right next door to the LL Bean flagship store in downtown Freeport.
Wanderlust uses all locally sourced ingredients to make their breakfast bowls and waffles. And they have a large selection of homemade pressed cold juices and smoothies that are YUM!
4 Mechanic St, Freeport $
Tucked between Falmouth and Brunswick along the Maine coast, Freeport is a lovely little town most famous for its plentiful retail outlets and shops, including the flagship outpost of that classic New England brand, L.L. Bean.
Photo Credit: Emily Marquis Downtown Freeport is quaint and charming
LL Bean flagship store with its 20' high boot
Photo Credit : Brant Kelly, Flickr
We spent the morning just wandering through downtown Freeport, exploring its shops and outlet stores.
It didn't take us long to find Wilbur's Chocolate Confections!
13 Bow Street, Freeport
We'd never heard of malt balls flavored other than malted milk so picked up a couple of bags of Harvest Mix Malt Balls - Milk chocolate, Pumpkin Pie, Cranberry and Maple Malt mix.
We also spent a bit of time browsing through Mangy Moose, Freeport’s favorite source for moose-themed gifts, Maine apparel, taxidermy, and Americana.
For lunch we popped into Buck's Naked BBQ - where the meats are smoked in an Ole Hickory Pit with locally sourced hardwoods like Oak, Apple, and Shag Bark Hickory. 568 US Route 1, Freeport
We ordered the Q for 2 - which was enough to feed a small army. ($62)
Sliced brisket, pulled pork, pit roasted chicken, smoked sausage, 1/2 rack baby back ribs, coleslaw, baked beans, potato salad and 2 pieces of cornbread.
Every item on the platter was great, but the standouts were the brisket and sausage, especially when paired with their four distinct BBQ sauces. The rub on those meats really made them pop - tons of flavor without being overpowering.
Portions are huge so keep that in mind when ordering. The service was friendly and prompt when we were there, although I have read some reviews where that wasn't the case...but then those reviews were written re: visits in peak season when the restaurant would be at its busiest.
We had no complaints with Buck's at all.
Back to the RV to head to Brunswick, a 14 minute drive from Freeport.
We found a great adults only camping and RV park called Wild Duck and got settled in.
In its heyday Brunswick was a bustling seaport that attracted fishermen, merchants and adventurers. Today it's a town with a population of about 20,000 residents and is best known as the location where author Harriet Beecher Stowe wrote the classic Uncle Tom's Cabin.
HARRIET BEECHER STOWE HOUSE
Constructed in the early 1800s, this house is not only a cherished part of Brunswick’s heritage but also holds the distinction of being listed as a National Historic Landmark.
Stowe only lived in Brunswick a short time and rented the house but it was during her time in this rented house that she penned her groundbreaking novel that would reshape the nation’s perception of slavery.
The writing room, open to the public, serves as a poignant reminder of the impact she made and the struggles she fought against.
The Harriet Beecher Stowe House is open to visitors by appointment and most Thursdays and Fridays, 12:00–3:00 p.m., with the following exceptions: the house will be closed 6/26-27, 7/24-25, 7/31-8/1, 8/14-15, 9/11-12, 9/18-19.
Please contact us before your visit to ensure we will be open and/or to schedule your visit. Tours are available.
For inquiries about house tours and visits, please contact Cathi Belcher (cbelcher@bowdoin.edu).
You could have your photo taken as an Arctic explorer with these cardboard stand-ups
The Peary-MacMillian Arctic Museum sounded intriguing so we checked that out after Stowe's house.
Talk about interesting! You can't appreciate what arctic explorers went through until you see a museum like this!
(Famed Arctic explorers Robert E. Peary and Donald B. MacMillan, fueled by a deep curiosity and unwavering determination, ventured into the frozen unknown during the early 20th century.)
There's a really impressive display of a fascinating array of equipment from sturdy sleds to intricately crafted navigational instruments. The museum’s collection extended beyond material artifacts. Valuable papers, journals, and correspondence shed light on the personal narratives of the explorers themselves - real testament to their triumphs, setbacks, and the sheer audacity of their pursuits. You really have to wonder how they survived at all!
Admission to the museum is free. The museum is located at Bowdoin College in Brunswick.
THOMAS POINT BEACH
Photo credit: Baxter Academy
If you're in the mood for a swim, to have a picnic or just relax then head over to Thomas Point Beach. This picturesque sandy beach offers stunning views of a serene bay, and it’s equipped with fantastic play areas that will keep your kids entertained for hours.
Thomas Point Beach also features a designated camping area where you can pitch your tent and immerse yourself in the natural beauty that surrounds you. Nestled just off Route 24 in Brunswick.
ANDROSCOGGIN SWINGING BRIDGE
Photo credit: Shutterstock
If you dare, cross the Androscoggin Swinging Bridge! As astonishing as it may seem, this remarkable bridge, now in its 13th decade, remains fully functional and accessible.
Generations of residents and visitors have traversed its sturdy structure, appreciating the connection it provides between Brunswick and Topsham.
To get to Androscoggin Swinging Bridge, take I-295 out of Brunswick to Topsham. It's about a 15 minute drive.
CABOT MILL ANTIQUES
Jay and I both love antiquing and we hit the jackpot with our visit to Cabot Mill Antiques. This antique mall is MASSIVE, over 16,000 square feet of antique heaven. Cabot Mill is located in Fort Andross, a beautifully restored textile mill on the Androscoggin River in Brunswick at 14 Maine Street.
We managed to while away most of the afternoon there! You’re sure to find something rare, unique and one-of-a-kind! You can find absolutely anything there that you can think of.
SWEET ANGEL
Our food came out very quickly and portions were generous. $$
136 Pleasant Street. Brunswick
One of the saleswomen at the antique mall had turned us on to the fact that Brunswick had a live theater at the college. We didn't think we could actually get tickets that late but she made one phone call and scored two tickets for us to their production of Tootsie.
PICKARD THEATER
There's a great little Thai restaurant in Brunswick called Sweet Angel where we had dinner.
We ordered spring rolls which were delicious, then followed up with Shrimp pad thai which was also delicious.
Photo credit: Maine State Music Theatre
I've seen a couple of Broadway productions and I have to say the Maine Theatre's production of Tootsie was nearly every bit as good. Everything was so professionally done - costumes, sets, lighting, everything. You could see the actors were putting their hearts and souls into their performance.
An actor named Dan DeLuca played Tootsie and I think he was actually funnier than Dustin Hoffman was in the movie!
We got a chance to speak with him just for a couple of minutes after the show and to congratulate him on an outstanding performance. I had to laugh when he told me the toughest part of his role was walking around in heels without breaking his neck. (I can hear every one of you gals out there laughing right along with me!)
If you're ever in Brunswick by all means put a Main Street Music Theatre live production on your bucket list!
I believe we paid $140 per ticket (?) and it was worth every cent. By the way, any seat in the Pickard theatre is a good seat with a good view of the stage.
Day 5 - Bath
Photo credit: Travel Maine
We loved the RV park we were in and since Bath is only 15 minutes from Brunswick, we'd just drive over to Bath, then back to Brunswick for the night, rather than going to the hassle of unhooking everything and that whole rigamaroll - only to have to rehook up everything 15 minutes away. (We're retired, we're lazy)
But you can adjust this itinerary as you need to, obviously.
Entering Bath is like stepping into a picture postcard. Bath is a city with a population of nearly 9,000 residents. The downtown area of Bath exudes a charming small-town atmosphere with family-owned stores and local dining establishments.
We took a quick walk around town just to get familiar with it, then headed off for out first stop.
BATH MARITIME MUSEUM
The Maine Maritime Museum is open year-round and details a rich maritime history. (It's so rich in maritime history we budgeted about 45-60 minutes there...5 hours later, including a one hour cruise up the Kennebec river, we were still there!)
The museum sits on 20 acres along the Kennebec River. From 1894 to 1920, the Percy & Small Shipyard constructed four, five and six mast schooners on the site, including Wyoming, the largest wooden schooner ever built.
Highly recommend both of the docent-led talks including the shipyard talk/tour which is offered at least twice a day. (Check with Museum for times before or just after your arrival for times available that day)
Normally I can do maybe one museum per day. I'm just not a big museum lover. But the Maritime Museum was the exception to the rule. It kept me interested the entire time I was there. The displays were well done. There was one display where you felt like you were at the top of a lighthouse looking down at the water, complete with beacon light.
There's so much to see, admission is good for two days & children under 18 receive free admission. However, I can find nowhere the listed current cost of admission is posted. Not even on the official museum website!
Incidentally, if you take the river cruise you'll see the Bath Ironworks where ships are still being built today!
RIVER RUN TOURS
Instead of staying on land and taking in the beautiful water views, try venturing onto the water with River Run Tours. These boat cruises operate across Maine’s MidCoast.
There are a number of tour options to choose from, including a Kennebec Maritime History tour, a Sunset or Evening cruise, and tours to Five Islands, Richmond and Swan Island, Arrowsic, Boothbay, and more.
Cruises vary in length depending on which you choose. Most cruises, though, last approximately two hours on tri-hull pontoon boats.
For the full experience, book The Grand Tour, which includes all of the above stops and is seven hours long. There’s no better way to take in the Kennebec River or MidCoast Maine than on the water.
EMBARK MAINE TOURS
Often, the most engaging method to discover the essence of a city is through a guided walking tour. Consider joining Embark Maine Tours for a captivating and interactive exploration of Bath, Maine’s storied past.
The company presents two distinct themed tours:
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The Historic Bath Tour is the flagship experience, offering a comprehensive overview of Bath’s 400-year history as you stroll through the downtown area. This tour lasts around 90 minutes.
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The Historic Neighborhood Tour delves into the architectural beauty of Washington Street and shares anecdotes about the families who once called it home. This tour is around 75 minutes.
LINWOOD TEMPLE WATERFRONT PARK
Photo credit: bojmaietta
If you'd like to relax on the waterfront, head for Linwood E. Temple Waterfront Park. The park spans 3 acres and has paved walking paths, benches, Adirondack chairs and picnic tables. There's also a boat launch dock and the park includes a sheltered space, allowing visitors to relish a picnic outdoors regardless of the weather.
You can bicycle on the paved paths but please watch for pedestrians!
The park is located at 61 Commercial Street, Bath
MOCKINGBIRD BOOKSHOP
If you need something to fill a rainy day or even if you just want some peace and quiet, then check out Mockingbird Bookshop.
It has comfortable seating and an excellent selection of books from best sellers to classics to children’s books.
Open seven days a week, the bookshop also features author talks throughout the year, so check the events schedule before you go. The children’s area has a nook and a nice selection of children’s favorites. Plus, visitors rave about the staff picks section and even the banned books options.
74 Front Street, Bath
The day kind of got away from us at the Maritime Museum and before we knew it, it was nearly dinnertime.
OystHERS Raw Bar & Bubbly was recommended to us so we thought we'd give it a try.
The owners are two sisters, Sadia and Lauren. Their father was a lobster fisherman who passed away suddenly and unexpectedly with his lobster boats still in the water. The sisters decided to fulfill a lifelong dream and open OystHERS - a seasonal raw bar featuring Sadia’s own Oysthers and fresh seafood to support Georgetown’s local lobstermen, fishermen and farmers.
The sisters have an emphasis on sourcing from female-owned and family-owned farms that don’t produce the quantity to sell to wholesale markets but are still growing a phenomenal oyster. They currently only sell oysters raised in Maine. And they own their own oyster farm!
Your order (if you order oysters, that is) may take a little longer to arrive at your table but that's because all of the oysters are fresh-shucked specifically for your order. They do not pre-shuck their oysters.
Now, OystHERS isn't a fancy sit down dinner restaurant. The sisters have a limited menu and do primarily charcuterie boards, sliders, salads and oysters.
I wouldn't touch a raw oyster if you paid me a million bucks...so I ordered a charcuterie board with smoked salmon (photo below right) and a lobster slider and I was good to go and just let Jay have at his raw oysters to his heart's content.
You place your order at a counter and they bring your food out to your table that overlooks the water and river.
They do have inside seating as well but the place is on the smaller side.
Bonus, you can have dessert at the ice cream truck right next door. 97 Commercial Street, Bath
Day 6 - Phippsburg
We drove to Phippsburg, then decided to go on to Boothbay Harbor (Day 7 destination) and got set up at Boothbay Craft Brewery & RV Park, another adult RV park. And brewery. (Seriously! It's an RV park with a brewery as part of its park and Jay wasn't about to pass that up!) Then we'd just backtrack with the car to Phippsburg, about a 30 minute drive. (That way we were already set up and hooked up for Day 7.)
I love to do wacky stuff that's not typical tourist and I stumbled across something on Facebook.
Meet J&J Farm Gallivanting Goats.
Basically, you hike to the beach with the goats and their owner, Jenn.
(I didn't tell Jay about this one beforehand, just sprung it on him. LOL)
Jay loved it! He had a blast with Jenn and those goats. So did I because I love goats. And how many people have ever said to you "Yeah, on our vacation we walked on the beach with 5 goats"? Not expensive to do either. $
It's a great way to explore Popham Beach.
FORT POPHAM STATE HISTORIC SITE
This was a fort that was built but never actually used. Construction on it waxed and waned with whatever conflict was raging at the time. You'll want to bring a flashlight with you if you want to explore the interior and also bug spray.
It is worth seeing if you are in the area but probably not worth a drive from more than twenty miles away. It is right next to Popham Beach State Park. It's free to explore, no admission fee. However, parking is very limited.
You can access everything except the top level, though you can take a spiral staircase to the top and there are informational plaques along the way. You can climb stairs to the third tier, but a gate prevents you from walking around on top. Some gun portals still have the metal coverings over them.
All in all it makes for an interesting short visit.
KAYAK THE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER
Kayaking on the Androscoggin River offers a serene and adventurous experience. The river is known for its clear waters and stunning scenery so it's a favorite among paddlers.
We decided to spend the rest of the day in Phippsburg just leisurely kayaking down the river. Seaspray Kayaking rents 2 person kayaks for $60 per day. They drop off and pick up your kayak. To put in at the river is only 1 mile from the rental shop. Lots of wildlife to see on the river.
We drove back to Boothbay Harbor, deciding to have dinner there as there were more dining options available and one of the guys at the kayak rental shop had clued us in to Shannon's Unshelled for the best lobster rolls around. Shannon's more than delivered.
Jay and I both agreed they were the best lobster rolls we'd ever had - each roll contains the fresh meat of a whole lobster, served on a perfectly toasted buttered bun with a side of garlic sea-salted butter. Often the condiments on a lobster roll tend to overpower the taste of the lobster itself but that was not the case at Shannon's.
We ordered some fried clams to go with our lobster rolls and they didn't disappoint either.
But what made the meal was Shannon's blueberry coleslaw. Just the right hint of sweetness and truly amazing! You have a choice between the coleslaw and a seaweed salad, go for the coleslaw! You won't regret it.
Shannon's threw another unexpected surprise at us - edible flowers garnishing the food baskets to add color to the fried food items. One just doesn't expect this coming from a little roadside restaurant where you order your meal at the counter and your food is brought to your table.
Nor were the prices at all out of line for what one would expect to pay for what amounted to a whole lobster.
23 Granary Way, Boothbay Harbor We'd most definitely eat at Shannon's again.
Day 7 - Boothbay Harbor
Photo credit: Katie Wanders
Boothbay Harbor is packed with charm. It's one of my fave Maine seacoast towns due to its small size and its 'just slow down and relax' vibe.
When you arrive in Boothbay Harbor take the morning to just explore the harbor itself. The best way to do this is to take the Boothbay Harbor Cruise: Lighthouses, Lobster Haul, and Seals tour. View lighthouses, islands, marine life, and even learn about lobster trap hauls. Normally I don't advocate a whole lot of paid tours, but this one is worth the money, fares starting at $41 per person for 1.5 hours with a tour guide. (This tour sells out really fast so book early!)
We especially liked seeing the seals sunbathing and you'll learn a lot about lobsters and see them actually haul in lobster traps!
You can also contact Maine Kayak and inquire about a guided kayak tour to view the seals.
COASTAL MAINE BOTANICAL GARDENS
We debated about taking the time to see the gardens and we're so glad we decided to take a stroll through them after checking out their website.
MONEY SAVING TIP: Book online vs. at the gardens and you'll save yourself $4 per admission!
Visit their WAYS TO SAVE page.
Adults and kids alike will love the Maine Botannical Gardens. (See if you can find all of the hidden trolls as you explore the Gardens!)
These were truly some of the most beautifully landscaped and interesting gardens we'd ever seen. Take a look!
Photos credit: Maine Botanical Gardens
We estimated we'd spend maybe an hour taking a quick walk through these gardens. Wrong! Plan on at least half a day if you want to see everything. If you have kids, plan on staying longer.
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Native Butterfly House
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Dahlia & Iris Garden
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Learning Apiary, Native Bee Exhibit
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Great Lawn
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Giles Rhododendron and Perennial Garden
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Lerner Garden of the Five Senses
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Slater Forest Pond
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Cleaver Lawn
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Arbor Garden
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Burpee Kitchen Garden
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Bibby and Harold Alfond Children’s Garden
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Haney Hillside Garden
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Vayo Meditation Garden
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Fairy House Village
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Shoreland Trail & The Landing
Funny thing...neither of us are so into gardens that we'd put them on a travel itinerary, but the Maine Botanical Gardens turned out to be one of our favorite highlights of the entire trip. The landscaping is astounding.
We didn't want to leave the gardens just to have lunch so we opted to have lunch at the cafe in the Gardens.
Located by the Great Lawn, the Café provides hot and cold food and beverage options, including salads, sandwiches, and seasonally rotating entrées.
The food served is all locally sourced, including from their own Burpee Kitchen Garden.
May 1- Oct. 19: Open Daily, 9 a.m.- 5 p.m.
Breakfast fare from 9 -11 a.m.
Lunch fare from 11 a.m.- 3 p.m.
Grab and Go items available 9 a.m - 5 p.m.
MAINE STATE AQUARIUM
Photo credit: Maine Botanical Gardens
Although we spent much of our day in the Gardens, we still wanted to squeeze in a visit to the Boothbay Harbor Aquarium. (Open seasonally)
Ticket prices & discounts
0 – 2 Free
3 – 12 $7.50
13 – 64 $10.00
65+ $7.50
Military/Veterans $7.50
The Maine State Aquarium participates in Aquariums for All. Those eligible for SNAP/EBT, WIC, Medicaid, MaineCare programs, or otherwise unable to meet the price of admission may visit at no cost through our Aquariums for All program.
This isn't a large aquarium like your big city aquariums, it's one room that's approximately 1800 square feet in size so it won't take all that long to see the entire aquarium. It is worth a visit though to learn about the sea life that Maine is home to. 194 McKown Point Road, West Boothbay Harbor
CABBAGE ISLAND CLAMBAKE
You simply cannot leave the Eastern Seaboard without having a genuine Maine clambake. That's a crime punishable by death. (JUST KIDDING!)
You have to get to Cabbage Island by boat so we booked with Cabbage Island Clambakes and we had such a great time!
The feast of fresh seafood, cooked on the beach in large holes, creates a sense of community and camaraderie. The menu includes freshly caught clams, mussels, lobsters, and other shellfish, along with side dishes, fruit, and desserts. Guests are encouraged to participate in the cooking process, making it a hands-on dining experience.
The seafood is incredibly fresh, with lobsters and steamers covered in kelp, adding a unique flavor and aroma.
The food includes 2 lobsters, clams, chowder, boiled egg, onion, baked potato, corn on the cob, melted butter, ice tea, coffee, and a delicious blueberry cake. Both before dinner and between courses you can explore the island's trails if you like.
-6.webp)
Photo credit: Cabbage Island Clambakes
This is a family run business and the hosts are wonderful.
Things have changed up a bit since we were there. The price per person has risen to $100 per adult due to the volatility of the lobster market and may change accordingly. Your ticket includes the narrated boat ride and your food. A cash bar is available.
Check out the menu and prices page for current information, ticket options and ticket prices.
Their ticket booth is the bright yellow booth located in Fisherman’s Wharf Inn in Boothbay Harbor - 22 Commercial Street, Boothbay Harbor. Please check in there to pay and retrieve your tickets.
Plan to arrive at their ticket booth one hour prior to departure for check-in and ticketing. They accept cash and check only at the booth, on the boat, and on the island - including the bar and gift shop. They do not accept credit or debit cards.
Day 8 - Camden
Photo credit: Get Away Travels
We rolled into Camden about an hour after leaving Boothbay Harbor but having found no RV sites we liked, we drove on another 20 minutes to the next stop on our itinerary - Day 9 in Rockport - and Megunticook Campground.
Photo credit: Megunticook Campground
We got set up and bicycles loaded, drove the car the 20 minutes back to Camden.
CAMDEN HILLS STATE PARK
Biking is popular in Camden because the trails are scenic and well-maintained. The Megunticook Lake Trail, Camden Hills State Park, and Camden Rockport Bike Ride are all great options for a scenic ride. The Camden Snow Bowl Mountain Bike Trail is perfect for those looking for a more challenging ride, and the Rockport Camden Lincolnville Area Ride is a great option for those who want to explore a few different towns.
We just wanted to do a short ride so settled on the 5.3 mile Frohock Mountain Trail - a great option for those who want to explore the Camden Hills State Park. This trail offers beautiful views of the park and the surrounding mountains.
Looking up the coast to Camden harbor with Owl's Head in the distance
If you don't want to bike Camden Hills State Park, there are over 30 miles of awesome hiking trails and picnic areas where families can relax.
The park’s most popular trail leads to the summit of Mount Battie. It’s an excellent spot for photography or simply enjoying nature’s beauty.
View from summit of Mt. Battle
Pssst! Keep your eyes peeled for various bird species, deer, and other wildlife along the trails.
280 Belfast Rd, Camden
SCHOONER OLAD
Photo credit: Schooner Olad & Cutter Owl
Jay's always been fascinated by tall sailing ships and had never been on one so I decided to surprise him with a 2 hour sail on a schooner, the Olad through Maine's Schooners and Captain Aaron Lincoln.
Not our cruise but to give you an idea of what this cruise is like...
Jay was over the moon, especially when he found out he was going to get a chance to steer the schooner.
Our cost as seniors was $67.95 per person. Fee schedule here
The boat leaves Camden Harbor but takes you around Penobscot Bay. Even if it's a warm day out, bring a jacket along. It can get chilly out there.
If you don't want to do the Windjammer cruise and you're in Camden during the Fall...
CAMDEN SNOW BOWL
During the winter months, the Camden Snow Bowl is a ski resort...but during Sundays in October you can take in the fall foliage from the summit of Ragged Mountain. Chairlifts will be spinning from 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. Purchase tickets same day, upon arrival for $15 per person (kids five and under are free). It's a great way to get a bird's eye view of fall colors!
Riders must be ambulatory and able to get off the lift at the top and walk down steps. After riders have taken in the views they have the option to reload and ride the chairlift back down or hike down. Chairlift ride is approximately 25 minutes one way. Ski Patrol will be firing up their pizza oven serving breakfast and lunch at the lodge.
And if that's not your cup of tea either, then just explore downtown Camden and its unique shops.
We found a great little Mexican spot for lunch called Mosaic, 31 Elm Street right in downtown Camden.
Chicken Adobo
Chipotle Honey Glazed Salmon
Mexican Street Corn
We were strolling the Camden Riverwalk after lunch and just happened to time it right to catch the Camden Farmer's Market.
It's a nice respite from any crowds in downtown just to stroll through the market, even if you don't buy anything.
There are also picnic tables where you can sit and listen to live music.
I'm a persnickety fussbudget when it comes to Mexican food. It has to taste like real Mexican from Mexico, not the stuff some American restaurants try to pass off as Mexican.
Loved Mosaic's food! We ordered the Chicken Adobo and the Chipotle Honey Glazed Salmon. And of course Mexican Street Corn because I'm a Mexican Street Corn junkie.
Everything surpassed what I expected. The staff was accommodating and friendly, the service good and the price was right. No wonder Mosaic has a big local following! $
There is ample street parking and public lots in the area.
CAMDEN FARMER'S MARKET
Photo credit: Camden Maine Stay
Find cut flowers, meats, seafood, cheeses, wood fired pizza, produce, baked goods, quality handmade items, preserves, mushrooms, herbs, plants, frozen treats, yogurt, eggs, & more.
Camden Farmers’ Market is located at 116 Washington St. in Camden.
OWL'S HEAD TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM
If you want to see something off beat and a little quirky, visit the Owl's Head Transportation Museum at 117 Museum Street in Owl's Head. It's about 13 miles or 22 minutes from Camden.
OPEN YEAR ROUND - Daily, 10:00 am - 4:00 pm See admission rates here
OTHER THINGS TO DO IN CAMDEN:
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Schedule a beach day at Camden Beach
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Visit the Farnsworth Art Museum
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Explore the Camden Opera House
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Take a Scenic Drive along Route 1
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Visit the Maine State Music Theatre
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Visit the Curtis Island Lighthouse
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Explore the Historical Society of Camden
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Visit the Samoset Resort Golf Course
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Enjoy a Picnic at Laite Memorial Beach
FRANNY'S BISTRO
Photos credit: Franny's Bistro
Australian Prime Rack of Lamb cooked on our Wood Grill. Served with Fingerling Potatoes, Roasted Roots and Earthy Ancho Gravy $45
Wood-Grilled Bistro Steak served along with Grilled Romaine, Goat Cheese Aioli and Garlicky Fries $42
Before returning to the Rockport RV park, we decided to treat ourselves to a more upscale meal at Franny's Bistro. 55 Chestnut Street, Camden
Tuesday -Saturday 5PM to Close
Fall Break starts October 14th, 2025 Reservations are required and can be made online.
Everything was perfect, we had a lovely dinner all the way around. We'd highly recommend Franny's.
Day 9 - Rockland
Photo credit: Inn at Rockland
Rockland is an historic town that boasts a rugged shoreline with a unique lighthouse, a vibrant arts scene, working harbor, and is home to the famed Maine Lobster Festival.
Main Street is a blend of unique shops, boutiques, and galleries, the dining scene is robust with of course, an emphasis on fresh, local lobster. Rockland Harbor Trail makes it easy to explore the waterfront, including the Rockland Breakwater.
This was actually my second trip out on the Rockland Breakwater, the first being with my family when I was a pre teen. As it happened, the lobster fishermen were out, cleaning out their traps, they saw us watching them and threw anything in the traps they didn't want up to us on the breakwater. Live sea urchins, starfish, you name it.
Of course, we were just thrilled that they did this...being kids and all.
What none of us knew was that my little brother decided he was going to take those live sea critters home and make pets out of them. It was unseasonably hot that summer. We got to Customs at the Canadian border, that Customs official opened the trunk, took one whiff, slammed the trunk lid shut and hollered to my dad, 'YOU CAN GO!"
Now you know how to clear Customs in under a nanosecond. Just be prepared to spend the next 2-3 days in a laundromat trying to get the stench out of everything you packed in your suitcase. As we did.
So HEAD'S UP parents if you decide to take your kids out on the Rockland Breakwater!
Oh and before I forget, there's a really cool lighthouse at the end of the Breakwater.
Photo credit: Jane Rix/Shutterstock
Be sure to pause and read the plaque that shares the fascinating story behind the lighthouse.
Also I will caution you to wear good walking, non slip shoes. The breakwater is uneven walking and the rocks can be a bit slippery just from being water-worn.
MAINE LIGHTHOUSE MUSEUM
Did you know Rockport is an official Coast Guard City? The Maine Lighthouse Museum is home to the largest collection of lighthouse, lifesaving, and U.S. Coast Guard artifacts in the nation.
If you are even casually interested in lighthouses, this museum is worth a visit.
There are dozens of lenses, lanterns, foghorns, bells, and other lighthouse structural items, along with models in uniform, actual boats used, etc.
It's quite the interesting and educational museum.
Admission to the museum is $12 for adults, $8 for seniors, $6 for military, children 12 and under are free with an adult. Rockland is an official Coast Guard City and all members of the U.S. Coast Guard, active and retired are admitted Free.
Maine Lighthouse Museum - 1 Park Dr, Rockland
MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL
The Maine Lobster Festival is a vibrant celebration of community and culture, held in the first week of August and spanning five days.
Besides offering a bounty of fresh local lobster and an array of delectable seafood delicacies, there are
carnival rides, artists and artisans display their creations, and a variety of live entertainers take the stage.
Photos credit: Maine Lobster Festival
As a non-profit organization, all the earnings generated from this grand celebration are reinvested into the Midcoast Maine communities to support local initiatives.
TAKE A RIDE ON THE ROCKLAND FERRY
If you want an affordable way to see the Maine coastline from the water, take a ride on the Maine State Ferry.
From the Rockland port, the ferry services 3 islands - Matinicus, North Haven and Vinalhaven.
Fares vary by destination so check fares here by clicking on the button of your island destination.
Not only do you get a nice boat ride with great scenery, you'll have the opportunity to talk with all of the locals who use the ferry to commute back and forth from work.
TAKE A MAINE FOODIE TOUR
Maine Foodies is now known as Maine Day Ventures but they still provide great tours. We were getting kind of tired of the same old lunch grind routine so decided to try a foodie tour. Specifically, a walking 3 hour foodie tour of Rockport featuring:
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Lobster rolls from fresh lobsters caught off off the coast of Owls Head
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Local haddock reuben with onion rings
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Your choice of an award-winning Maine craft beer
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Locally sourced soups prepared daily with choice of vegan, gluten-free and more
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EVOO and carefully aged balsamics
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Specialty award-winning chocolate made right in Rockland
It was a bit on the pricey side ($146 per person) but we were very limited in our tour choices for the time of year we were in Rockland being most places were getting ready to shut down for the season.
Maine Foodie Tours creates itineraries for walking tours, progressive dinners, and beer/cocktail crawls featuring the culinary artisans of Rockland.
Our favorite stop?
Photo credit: Maine Foodie Tours
We stopped at a market and picked up goodies to make loaded baked potatoes for dinner. After dinner, we sat at the firepit, just enjoying the last of our time in Maine. It had been a fabulous trip...and we were already planning another to a new destination. (Get that atlas out, Jay!)
Day 10 - Return home
You can modify our itinerary to suit your own needs and interests. You can use the itinerary planner on the home page to give you a hand planning your itinerary if you need to.
Have a great Maine road trip!