WARNING: This is not a National Park trip for the faint of heart, the non adventurous traveler or those who feel a vacation isn't a vacation without room service. Nor is it a trip for the cell phone and otherwise tech addicted because there is no tech or cell phone signal where we're headed.
Or even roads or wheeled vehicles.
There is only rugged pristine wilderness, an abundance of lakes, 3000 moose (give or take) 3 packs of wolves, an overabundance of black flies and mosquitos roughly the size of a Boeing 777, and one full service accommodation on the entire island. And the only way you get to this island is via boat, ferry or seaplane.
It is among the least visited of America's national parks, yet at the same time the most revisited park by those who have been there.
MY HOUSE
Isle Royale National Park (pronounced "Royal,”) is the most remote national park in the lower 48 and consistently one of the least visited. Just 29,091 folks visited it in 2025, fewer than the Smokies see on a slow Tuesday. The park shuts down completely for half the year given it sits surrounded by Lake Superior, which freezes over in the winter.
That’s exactly the appeal. This is primal, intentional, uncompromising wilderness, a 45-mile-long island in Lake Superior with its own time zone quirks. Rangers like to point out that the folks who do come keep coming back. It’s famously the most re-visited park in the entire national park system.
After spending a few days there we could see why!
This is going to be a long, very comprehensive post because this is a trip you plan at least 366 days in advance. I'm going to cover everything necessary to do that because planning a trip to Isle Royale is so involved.
I'm not going to give you a travel itinerary because what you plan to do on Isle Royale may be vastly different from what we did on Isle Royale. Rather, I'm going to treat our trip like a blog and you can pull from it to plan your own trip if you wish.
I want to do as much as possible for you as I can to take some of the complication out of planning your own Isle Royale trip - as there is a whole lot you need to know. It took me over a week verifying everything I'm going to post as I discovered there was a preponderance of Internet discrepancy regarding Isle Royale in doing that verification.
We're going to start with a warning about Lake Superior for those unfamiliar with the Lake.
Before we get into our trip I'd be remiss if I didn't issue this warning about Lake Superior. My brother is a kayak instructor on Lake Superior so I've heard his experiences with the lake in addition to my own experiences with Lake Superior. In a snap of your fingers the weather on Superior can turn deadly. It's notorious for it's fast brewing storms and its open waters are no place for novice kayakers, canoers, boaters, scuba divers.
This is what a spring storm on Lake Superior can look like:
The waters of Superior are COLD. The surface temperature rarely gets above 55 degrees F. Get into its depths and temperatures drop into the 30 degree F range. If you take a spill from any kind of watercraft hypothermia can kill you within minutes.
It's also a very deceptive lake. What may look like small swells from the shore can actually be 3x bigger (or more) once you get out on its open waters. Additionally, it's full of jagged, rocky reefs you can get tossed into. It's why there are so many shipwrecks in its waters.
Unless you're a very experienced kayaker, canoer, or boater play it safe and stick to the calmer inland lake waters in Isle Royale. Nor do recreational kayaks belong on Superior, you need to be in a sea kayak.
Know your skill level and paddle accordingly. If you're new to kayaking there are Isle Royal guided kayaking trips you can take with an experienced guide. Keweenaw Adventure Company offers guided kayaking trips that I've been told are excellent.
(Blogger Olivia Outside took their guided kayak trip and wrote about it if you want an idea of what it's like.)
for scuba divers
What sets diving the Lake Superior shipwrecks apart from your normal dives is the cold. Lake Superior preserves wood and steel like a walk-in freezer. The Park Service notes that shoes recovered from these boats could still be worn today. The interiors are frozen in time, damaged only by the sinking itself.
None of this should discourage divers, provided they have advanced certifications and cold-water, wreck, and deep diving experience. But it should serve as a reminder to come prepared and stay vigilant — two tenets seasoned divers already abide. At Isle Royale, being prepared starts with having the right gear.
Scuba Equipment required
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Diving suit capable of keeping you comfortable in 40 degree Fahrenheit water. I would recommend a drysuit (with proper training and experience). If you choose to go wet, I strongly recommend three finger mitts and a hooded vest in addition to your 6-7 mill wetsuit.
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Adequate regulators for cold water. Your regulator system must have an alternate air as well as a primary second stage. You may also consider a pony or bail out system.
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Submersible tank pressure gauge and depth Gauge (a dive computer is not required, but highly recommended).
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Mask, fins, dive light(s), knife, weights and weight belt and spare parts kit, (remember limited space).
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Tanks, 1 or 2 , tanks must be current in hydro and have a current VIP sticker or they will not be permitted on the boat.
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Watch or bottom timer, again a dive computer is highly recommended.
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Buoyancy compensator with a power inflator, whistle and compass.
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No dives will be permitted without the proper equipment — Make arrangements to buy , rent or borrow.
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If you bring a fully weight integrated bcd or very heavy gear, be prepared to have your buddy(s) help lift and lower gear to transom.
Divers are required to register on arrival. Charter operators who know these waters run dive trips to the various shipwrecks. Isle Royale Charters can arrange a guided diving trip.
Recommended Approach For Advanced Divers
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Book your Water Taxi from Rock Harbor Lodge to Hidden Lake or Daisy Farm Dock (shortest route to the SS America).
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Meet at the dock with your dive gear and a buddy.
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Dive plan: Use the NPS shipwreck profiles for the SS America to determine your dive profile, depth, and decompression stops.
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Safety gear: Carry oxygen, CPR training, and know how to use it.
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Emergency contact: Have the park’s emergency dispatch number (440‑546‑5945) and US Coast Guard marine radio (channel 16) on hand.
Regulations
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Leave What You Find: Federal law prohibits the removal or disturbance of shipwreck sites and associated artifacts.
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Prevent the Spread of Invasive Species: Wash all dive gear in warm chlorinated tap water; and dry all dive gear and wetsuit for seven days prior to diving in the park.
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Dive Permits: Each diver must register at the Rock Harbor, Windigo, or Houghton Visitor Center before diving, and return completed permit after the trip.
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Dive Flags: Dive sites or boats must be marked with the standard diver down flag whenever divers are in the water. When at the surface, divers must be within 100 feet of the flag. When dives take place between sunset and sunrise, the flag must be illuminated.
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Closures: All interior lakes and the Passage Island small boat cove are closed to diving to preserve fragile resources.
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America is closed to diving between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 p.m. eastern time, to allow ferry passengers to view the wreck.
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Air/Gas Fills: There are no facilities for filling dive cylinders at Isle Royale. Personal compressor use is limited to designated times and locations as indicated on your dive permit.
For additional regulations, consult your dive permit.
I have to admit our Isle Royale trip was one of the most difficult trips we've ever planned, just from a logistics standpoint alone. Believe it or not, getting your rules, regulations, fees, necessary permits line up beforehand is the worst part of the planning. Once you've gotten that done you're over the hump. Hopefully what I lay out here will help you through that worst part.
One of your most critical decisions you'll have to make is how you're going to get to the island, It's reachable only by ferry, seaplane or private boat. When making this decision, take into account that anything you have to bring in (transport) you're going to have to pack out again. How much can you bring with you on a ferry or seaplane? This includes your food if you don't want to spend beaucoup bucks buying food at one of the island's 2 stores that have rather limited items for sale.
If you're planning on only backpacking from one end of the island to the other, an experienced backpacker travels very light and already knows what they'll need to transport in and out in a single backpack. However, if you're going to want to stay at accommodations with 4 walls, this becomes much more complex.
I'll go through your transport options in one of the next sections of this post. And in that case, you're going to have to transport anything you purchase at the store down a 1/8 mile trail or transport it across Tobin Harbor to the Lodge. We spent months researching this very issue since the main mode of travel on the island is by foot.
Let's go through Isle Royale accommodations first so you know what your options are.
Welcome to Rock Harbor Lodge & Marina, the only 'full service' accommodations on the Island.
Which accommodations you choose are critical and will depend largely on what you plan on doing while on Isle Royale.
Rock Harbor Lodge & Marina
Marina Alexander (at the Lodge) is the resident expert on all things Isle Royale. She offers the following advice:
One way to save money, especially for families, is to rent a housekeeping cabin (each unit sleeps up to 6), and bring food during your stay. The cabins have a small kitchen unit, with a stove top, microwave, and refrigerator. Bring a cooler full of food that you can refresh with ice from the store to keep in your cabin, and bring any canoes or kayaks your family owns. Of course, the lodge has two restaurants we welcome all park visitors to, as well as a marina that has canoes and kayaks to rent as well. Proper planning can really stretch your dollar.
Sound advice as Isle Royale is like any other island location - EXPENSIVE.
You can book a Lodge room, a housekeeping cottage or one of two primitive Windigo cabins. There are pros and cons to each...but first know these accommodations are nothing fancy at all. In fact, I imagine they look pretty much the same as they did in the 1920's, are grossly in need of some updates and they're exorbitantly overpriced. But when you have an accommodations monopoly I guess you can pretty much name your price.
I will say that although spartan our housekeeping cottage was comfortable and adequate for our needs.
Of course you always have the option of staying off-island on the mainland, but it will get just as expensive traveling back and forth from the mainland to the island and it's a lot more hassle, not to mention traveling back and forth will eat up a major portion of your vacation time.
Lodge Rooms
There are 60 lodge rooms on 2 floors. The Lakeside Lodge Rooms feature a private bathroom and bedding configurations of either two double beds, or one king bed. These rooms offer a spectacular view of Lake Superior.
Room Amenities
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Alarm Clock
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Coffee Maker
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Private Bathroom
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Table & Chairs
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Views Of Lake Superior
The pros of the Lodge rooms are that you're right there in the mix of everything - restaurant, etc. so you won't have to walk through the woods to get what you want from the Lodge.
The con is you have no cooking facilities whatsoever, not even a microwave.
Lodge rooms start at $435/night.
housekeeping cottages
Room Amenities
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Coffee Maker
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Daily Housekeeping Not Provided
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Heat
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Kitchen Table
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Kitchenette
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Linens & Towels
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Microwave
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Mini-Refrigerator
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Private Bathroom
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Stove Top
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Utensils
There are 20 housekeeping cottages, each of them a duplex.
They sit on a hill overlooking the lake.
The pros are you at least have a kitchenette if you don't want to eat the same restaurant food every night.
Con: You have to walk 1/8 mile through the woods to get to the main lodge.
The view out the front window is spectacular, especially when you wake up to see a moose grazing right in front of your window. The cottages are more secluded and private than the main lodge.
Prices for the cottages start at $504/night.
We wanted something more secluded and with some kitchen facilities so booked a cottage.
Tip: If you're going to book a cottage, try to book #207 - #212. They're at the end of the path so you won't have people constantly walking past your living room picture window and they have the best views.
windigo cabins
There are 2 Windigo cabins. The Windigo Camper Cabins at Rock Harbor Lodge do not have indoor plumbing. Each cabin is a one‑room unit with bunk beds, a fold‑out futon, electricity, and a covered porch, but they are boat‑in and do not have flush toilets or indoor showers.
Access to flush toilets, coin‑operated showers, and laundry facilities are located downhill from the cabins and there is a nearby outhouse.
Because of the lack of indoor plumbing, guests should bring all necessary toiletries and arrange for waste disposal in advance. The limited camp store in the Windigo area stocks basic supplies, but most necessities should be brought from the mainland.
The cabins include:
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A full‑sized propane grill and picnic table
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A covered porch with Adirondack chairs
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Screened windows and doors for ventilation
Since the Windigo Camper Cabins are a camper-style unit, they are likely in the same price range as the housekeeping cabins, but exact rates can vary by season and availability. For the most accurate and up-to-date pricing, you should call the lodge directly at (877) 841‑1064.
backcountry camping
Isle Royale National Park offers 36 primitive backcountry campgrounds scattered across its rugged shoreline, rocky shores, and spruce–fir forests. All sites are first-come, first-served for groups of six or fewer, with no reservations or fees for individual campsites. Groups of seven or more must make reservations and pay an extra fee. Other than that, Isle Royale camping is completely free.
Campsites that are located by Lake Superior also have shelters (basically enclosed lean-tos) that you can use instead of pitching your tent! Each site also has one or two outhouses (that are often not supplied with toilet paper- so bring your own!), and each is located next to some sort of water source that can be filtered or purified for drinking and cooking.
The lean to shelters are in high demand during peak season so don't count on getting one and bring a tent!
There are no furnishings in the lean to's.
Lean to shelter
The Lodge restaurants
The Lodge has 2 restaurants. They sit side-by-side under the same roof.
The Greenstone Grill After a long day of hiking and exploring, the deck is a favorite gathering spot for guests to relax and have a cool afternoon beverage. The Greenstone Grill serves pizza, burgers, sandwiches, fresh salads, late-night snacks, cappuccino, and a wide selection of regional beer and wine each evening. If you're on the move, they also offer grab and go options made daily.
Operating Season
June 5th, 2026 - September 12th, 2026
Hours of Operation
Breakfast 6:30 am - 11:00 am
Lunch/Dinner 11:00 am - 8:00 pm
Called "the dining room" by Lodge guests.
Rock Harbor Lodge participates in Catch and Cook, so the Lighthouse Restaurant can cook your catch for you once you return! They'll also make a lunch-to-go for your activities if you request such.
Operating Season:
June 5th, 2026--September 12th, 2026
Hours of Operation
Breakfast 7:00 am – 8:30 am
Dinner 5:30 pm - 8:00 pm
dockside harbor store
The Dockside Store is located on the main dock in Rock Harbor. It offers a standard selection of groceries, freeze dried camping meals, fishing tackle, camping and hiking accessories, camping fuel, photo supplies, boating accessories, bagged ice, apparel, books, souvenirs, toiletries and sundries.
Guests can also purchase tokens for the shower, as well as rent towels (for the shower). Fuel is also available such as isobutane mixed fuel and white gas.
Open Daily
May 23 – June 5, 2025 - 8:00 am – 5:00 pm
June 6 – September 12, 2025 - 8:00 am – 8:00 pm
Rock Harbor Lodge is across the harbor from the Dockside Store so you'll have to transport your purchases over the water and across the harbor.
This should give you an idea of the type of accommodations options you have. This will go hand-in-hand with how you decide to get yourself and all of your gear to Isle Royale.
Arriving By Seaplane
If you're short on time or if you prefer to leave from Grand Marais or Hancock Portage Canal then flying into Isle Royale may be the way to go. It is expensive however, with round trip prices starting at around $300. And you're going to be very limited on what you can bring. (Your gear is stowed in the pontoons of the seaplane to give you some idea...)
Arriving at Isle Royale National Park by seaplane is the most direct and scenic way to reach the island, offering a bird’s‑eye view of the park’s wilderness and remote beauty.
The only concessionaire for seaplane service to Isle Royale is Isle Royale Seaplanes, based in Hubbell, Michigan on the Keweenaw Waterway National Park Service. Their office and dock are in Hubbell, about 200 miles north of Green Bay, WI.
Seaplanes land at Windigo or Rock Harbor on the island.
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Windigo is the main visitor center and campground hub.
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Rock Harbor is a smaller landing site, often used for backpackers and day‑trippers.
The operating season is typically mid‑May to mid‑September, with schedules varying each year Day trips and overnight visits are available. Flights are seasonal due to Lake Superior’s harsh weather. Also be aware Lake Superior can whip up some wicked bad storms, grounding your plane anywhere from hours to days.
Fares (2026 example) Isle Royale Seaplanes
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One‑way Hubbell → Windigo or Rock Harbor: $289/person
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One‑way Hubbell → Windigo only: $420 (Jun 6–Sep 6)
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One‑way Hubbell → Rock Harbor only: $420 (Jun 6–Sep 12)
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Roundtrip: $420/person
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Three‑way (drop‑off at one end, pick‑up at the other): $420/person
Fares include all taxes and fees.
From Hubbell, the seaplane flight to either Windigo or Rock Harbor takes about 40 minutes.
Book flights in advance, especially in peak season.
For schedules, fares, and reservations, visit the Isle Royale Seaplanes website or the NPS Isle Royale Seaplanes page. Links above.
To get to Isle Royale you basically have 3 options:
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Ferry
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Seaplane
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Your own personal boat
There are pro's and con's to each.
By Ferry
There are three main passenger ferry services operated by the National Park Service and private operators, each with different routes and schedules.
1. Ranger III (National Park Service)
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Route: Houghton, MI ↔ Rock Harbor, MI
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Duration: ~6 hours each way
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Schedule: Departs Houghton Tuesdays & Fridays; returns from Rock Harbor Wednesdays & Saturdays
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Capacity: Up to 128 passengers per voyage
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Extras: Breakfast & lunch on board; games available; canoes/kayaks for a fee.
2. Isle Royale Queen IV (Isle Royale Line)
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Route: Copper Harbor, MI ↔ Rock Harbor, MI
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Duration: ~3.5 hours each way
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Schedule: Daily service from May through early September (sailing days vary by month)
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Fare: Adults $175 one‑way; children $125; canoes/kayaks $60 each Isle Royale Line
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Extras: Same‑day round trip; later departure from the island than Ranger III
3. Voyageur II (Isle Royale Line)
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Route: Grand Portage, MN ↔ Windigo, MI (via Rock Harbor, McCargoe Cove, Belle Isle, Daisy Farm, Chippewa Harbor, Malone Bay)
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Duration: ~1.5 hours each way
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Schedule: May 9–Sep 24, 2026; outbound trips Wed/Sat (early season) or Mon/Wed/Sat (mid‑season); inbound trips Thu/Sun (early season) or Tue/Thu/Sun (mid‑season)
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Extras: Multiple island stops; canoes/kayaks for a fee; requires return reservation at same time as outbound
4. Sea Hunter III (Isle Royale Line)
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Route: Grand Portage, MN ↔ Windigo, MI
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Duration: ~1.5 hours each way
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Schedule: June 10–Sep 5, 2026; daily service Isle Royale Boats
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Extras: Day trip or camping rates; canoes/kayaks for a fee
A note on parking: If you take the Ranger III ferry out of Houghton, Houghton Visitor Center offers free parking. They also accommodate RV's with advance notice.
bringing your own kayak/canoe
The Ranger III is a 165‑ft National Park Service ferry that can carry up to 4 boats at a time, with a maximum boat length of 20 feet. The Ranger III can carry a 1 person kayak or canoe for $60 and a 2 person canoes/kayaks up to 18 ft or 80 lbs for $80; larger/heavier ones incur extra freight charges. Those are one way trip charges.
Preparation to do this must be made months in advance.
Requirements: One person must accompany each boat being transported.
You must know your boat's exact length.
Have registration papers and any other necessary documents with you.
Follow the instructions on where to put your boat until ferry staff call you for loading.
taking your own private boat
Ultimately we decided to rent a boat (initially anyways, we ended up buying a used boat in great condition)) to transport us and all of our gear to Isle Royale.
This won't be for everyone, but I want to show you what's possible in case it would be an option for you. I'm not saying buy a boat here...rent one. In our case, it ended up being less expensive to buy our own boat since I live on a lake anyway, where we could use the boat after our Isle Royal trip. It ended up being the best option for us and we'd do it again.
The biggest boat you can rent on Isle Royale is a 14' Lund aluminum fishing boat with a 15 hp motor. We wanted to do some fishing in Lake Superior open waters and did NOT feel comfortable going out onto Superior in a 14' boat as unpredictable as Lake Superior can be - which was another reason we chose to take our own boat.
This is the boat we ended up buying.
I'll explain why. The Open 262 has a boatload (no pun intended) of storage space.
The 2024 Open 262 offers multiple versatile storage spaces, including bow boxes, console compartments, in-floor fish boxes, and specialized battery and small-item storage.
Bow Storage
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Two large insulated bow storage boxes: Can be used as fish boxes or coolers, located at the front of the boat for easy access while fishing or cruising.
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Bow cushion filler board storage: Provides an additional seat and two cupholders when needed, doubling as knee and leg pads during fishing.
Console Storage
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Console-front seat with backrest: Flip the bottom cushion to reveal an insulated cooler for drinks or perishables.
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Enclosed console space: Can serve as a changing room or storage for bulky items sportsmanboatsmfg.com.
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Trolling motor battery storage: Dedicated compartment inside the console keeps up to three batteries out of sight and organized.
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Overhead padded storage: Small items like phones, USB devices, and other essentials can be stored safely, with a waterproof wireless charging pad included.
Cockpit and Deck Storage
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Twin aquarium livewells at the transom: Primarily for bait or catch, integrated into the fishing-ready cockpit layout.
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In-floor macerated fish boxes: Two located in the main deck area, plus an additional macerated bow storage box, simplifying cleanup and keeping the deck organized. Additional storage under leaning post and helm. Provides space for gear, electronics, or personal items
Specialized Features
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Insulated compartments: Many storage areas double as coolers or fish boxes, maintaining temperature for catches or refreshments.
Transporting food problem solved! We turned the transom insulated livewells into coolers. We lined them with dry ice bricks, layered our frozen meat and other frozen items with dry ice packs between each layer. This kept our food frozen for 4 days, nearly the entire time we were on the island! Our plan was to make some of our own meals in the housekeeping cottage kitchenette, eat the frozen items we'd brought along within the first 4 days of our trip, supplement homemade meals with fish we'd caught, and eat a few meals at the Lodge restaurants.
We still had plenty of room to store our scuba and fishing gear, 2 backpacks, a wheeled cooler, 2 collapsible grocery carts, and a carry on sized wheeled suitcase. We laid our 2 kayaks down the middle of the boat, threw the boat cover over everything and off we went with everything we wanted and/or needed. There was no way in hell we could've transported all of that on a ferry or seaplane. Plus we didn't have to rent kayaks on the island for $77 per day. Not only that, we could comfortably take others we met out on the boat to cruise the lake, which we ended up doing.
Like I said, it may not be an option for you but it was the ideal option for us.
The 26' long Open 262 blends a family friendly layout with offshore fishing capabilities through an open bow and removable bow seats. We got the optional upgrades: a bow table, cooler seat and Garmin Fusion DSP audio system.
This model sports an open bow layout perfect for family cruising and lounging while also perfect for moving around the boat while fighting a fish. Plenty of dry storage so you're not falling over gear trying to get from one end of the boat to the other. It was also long enough to store our two sea kayaks until we got to the park.
We loaded everything into the boat, threw the cover over it and off we went. We weren't limited to the calmer bays and inlets when fishing and could go for the fish that typically inhabit deeper waters.
how to get from houghton to isle royale
There was another pro to doing things this way. We launched from Houghton and the Houghton Visitor Center offers free parking for your vehicle - including for RV's with advance notice. So we avoided a $10 per night parking fee charged elsewhere and the problem of where to park a large RV.
If you’re coming from Houghton, Michigan and want to reach Isle Royale National Park by private boat, you’ll need to plan for both the trip to the island and the logistics of boating there.
1. Travel to Houghton, MI
Houghton is in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, about 200 miles north of Green Bay, WI, and 400 miles north of Chicago, IL You can reach it by car, bus (Indian Trails), or small plane (Houghton County Memorial Airport, CMX).
2. Launching from Houghton
From Houghton, the main public ferry terminal is the Ranger III at the Park’s Mainland Headquarters (800 E. Lakeshore Dr.). While this is for public use, you can use the same launch point for private boats. The Isle Royale Seaplanes base is on Torch Lake, about 25 miles west of Houghton, but private boats can still launch from Houghton’s lakeshore.
3. Sailing to Isle Royale
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Distance: From Houghton, the open-water distance to Isle Royale is about 63 miles.
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Travel time: Expect 6–7 hours of sailing, depending on wind, weather, and your vessel’s speed.
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Route: Head northeast across Lake Superior toward the island. You’ll pass by the Isle Royale Seaplanes base and Torch Lake before reaching the island.
4. Arriving at the Island
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East End: Rock Harbor (main visitor center)
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West End: Windigo (smaller dock)
You can anchor or dock at either, but Rock Harbor is the main access point for visitors.
5. Boating Permits & Customs
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Boater Permit: Required for overnight camping, docking, or anchoring at Isle Royale.
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Customs: If arriving from Canada, you must clear U.S. Customs at the Rock Harbor Visitor Center using the self-check-in station.
Gasoline, diesel, and pump-out services are available in Rock Harbor and Windigo during business hours.
In short: From Houghton, launch your private boat from the Ranger III area, sail 63 miles across Lake Superior, and arrive at Rock Harbor or Windigo, following NPS boating rules and customs requirements.
If you're backpacking you already know what to bring. This packing list is for those who will be staying in Lodge accommodations.
CLOTHING
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Quick‑drying base layers (cotton, polyester, polypropylene)
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Wool or synthetic socks
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Lightweight pants, long‑sleeve shirt, T‑shirt, shorts
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Lightweight jacket, sweater/fleece, knit hat, light gloves
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Rainsuit or poncho
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Sunglasses
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A good broken in pair of hiking boots, preferably waterproof
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Swimsuit and flip flops
The weather on Isle Royale can change drastically even during the summer months if a storm blows in. The temperatures can drop significantly when this happens.
You want to bring clothes you can layer! You also want to be able to wash time out in your cottage if necessary. Bring along a length of paracord and some clothespins to make your own clothesline to dry your clothes if necessary. On Isle Royale, laundry services are available only at the Rock Harbor Comfort Station and the Rock Harbor Lodge.
What we did was bring a small bottle of Dawn along that we could use both for dishwashing and washing clothes at our cottage.
As I mentioned previously, the black flies and mosquitos on Isle Royale are the size of a Boeing 777 - and there are LOTS of them.
Get yourself a sun hat with attached or detachable mosquito netting and save your sanity in having to constantly be swatting at the buggers.
You can get a hat like the one shown at left at Walmart for under $20.
By the same token bring plenty of insect repellent!
other necessities
Your passport - even if you think you won't use it. You're going to be able to see Canada from the park and especially on the water, it's very easy to accidentally end up in Canadian waters if you're not familiar with the boating routes. Better to have your passport than not have it, just in case.
Park maps. It's very easy to get lost in the backcountry wilderness. Just last year there were 2 deaths on Isle Royale (murder/suicide of 2 brothers) and Rangers only became aware of this when backpackers who came across the bodies reported them to Rangers. It took the Rangers 11 hours to hike to the location where this happened. It's good to know the park trails even BEFORE you get to Isle Royale due to how remote you'll be and the fact there is no cell phone service.
Compass and emergency whistle. Having a Personal Locator Beacon is an excellent idea.
Documents. Boat registration papers, permits, etc. you might need.
Day backpack for hiking if you're not backpacking.
A water filtration kit. This is especially critical if you're going to go out into the backcountry wilderness. Established campsites have potable water for the most part but there are plenty of areas where you'll have to treat your water to drink it safely.
I have a nifty DIY water filtration kit that fits in a molle I attach to my survivalist pack. It contains everything you need to safely sanitize drinking water, without boiling it for 3 hours.
First Aid Kit - and the knowledge of how to use it. There is no medical clinic or hospital on Isle Royale. If you get injured, you're in the Park Rangers hands until you can be transported off the island to a suitable medical facility.
Lantern, flashlights, extra batteries. We also brought headlamps along.
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Trekking poles - terrain can be very uneven, rocky and at times, slippery.
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Binoculars - for wildlife viewing (optional)
kitchen/cooking
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In a Lodge housekeeping cottage all you'll have is a small kitchenette with a 2 burner stove (no oven), microwave, mini refrigerator with no freezer, a sink, and a small table.
The only things furnished are dinnerware (plates, cups, saucers), silverware, some pots and pans, a coffeemaker, and a can opener.
Nor are there any outdoor cooking facilities.
Anything else you need you'll have to bring in yourself.
The following list is what we brought along:
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BBQ tools
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Medium sized tongs
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Small set of measuring cups and spoons
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Small plastic colander
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Larger unslotted and slotted spoons, 1 of each
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Hot mitts
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Our own can opener
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Vegetable peeler
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Fish filet knife
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Dish sponge and non stick pan scrubber
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Quick dry towels
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Trash bags
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1 roll of paper towels
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Coffee filters
Fires are prohibited in the park except for a very few designated areas, one of which is down by the marina, shown at right. But this necessitates hauling everything down to the marina and back again.
We found a propane gas combination portable grill and deep fryer to avoid this problem.
Marina BBQ area
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We also brought my small FryBaby along for frying fish filets. We put all of the cooking items in their own backpack.
A butane gas powered tabletop Hibachi grill is another option for being able to BBQ at your own cottage.
You might also want to bring along a couple of camp chairs for relaxing outside of your cottage.
entertainment
Entertainment at the Lodge consists of a small bar where park-goers congregate to share their park adventures. There is a TV in this bar but we never saw anyone really watching it. There is no TV in your cottage.
Nightly entertainment is what you make it.
There is a small deck where everyone seemed to congregate and socialize.
We brought along a DVD player with screen and some DVD movies, a cribbage board and a couple of board games to play after dark - although we seldom used them.
You'll be met by a park Ranger who will give a 20 minute talk about the island - rules, regulations, wildlife encounters and other safety measures.
You definitely want to listen to this presentation for your own safety and well being!
If you're staying at the Lodge, lodge staff will transport your gear/luggage to the Lodge for you so you won't have to schlupp heavy gear around yourself. We merely unloaded from the boat those items we wanted them to transport.
We began our 1/8 mile hike over the paved trail and through the woods to our cottage.
Each cottage is a duplex and as it happened, our duplex neighbors arrived the same time we did.
arrival on the island
We rolled into Rock Harbor around 3 pm. If you take the Ranger III ferry you'll arrive about this same time. We enjoyed the 6 hour boat ride and thankfully, Lake Superior behaved and didn't whip up any of her notorious storms.
Park Ranger dock presentation
Fate was about to step in, in a way none of us had even considered. Our neighbors were another American couple named Kendall and Leslie. Kendall kept looking at Jay oddly and finally said, "I know you from somewhere! Where do I know you from?" The light bulb finally came on when Kendall and Jay discovered they were both surgeons and that Kendall had attended a medical conference at which Jay had been the keynote speaker. Talk about a small world!
The four of us hit it off immediately and would end up spending much of our time on Isle Royale together.
After we all got settled into our digs, I whipped up a charcuterie board, Jay mixed some drinks and we had our own impromptu 'Happy Hour".
We were so comfortable with one another it felt like we'd known each other for years. During our conversation we then discovered Leslie had been in law enforcement too, as a dispatcher!
We'd hit the duplex neighbor jackpot.
None of us had yet made dinner plans so we decided to have dinner together at the Lodge dining room. The Lighthouse and the Greenstone Grill are owned by the same family, ..two sides under one roof, with one kitchen, but with separate menus.
The Lighthouse (guests call it "the dining room") is a little higher priced, with steaks and Lake Superior fish entrees, and a breakfast buffet, while the Greenstone is pizza, burgers, and sandwiches. Both are equally good...not gourmet cooking, but basic fare.
The Lodge dining room
Both places get very busy, so allow ample time to get seated, and wait for your meal. The waitstaff are college students from foreign countries like Taiwan and Malaysia sprinkled with local students. They'll bust their butts for you. Serving hours, and seating, are limited, so check the schedule to plan around, and be there early.
No standard for dress....we saw everything from hiking shorts, to long skirts, to bluejeans...very casual.
Everything we ordered (steak dinners and pork chops dinners) was ample portion size, and good.
The menu is fairly limited but we really didn't expect otherwise being the kitchen has to transport all of their food in too.
We learned the dining room would pack a to go lunch for you and they also participate in Catch and Cook, so the Lighthouse Restaurant can cook your catch for you once you return from your fishing trip!
Both good to know.
Kendall and Leslie mentioned taking a trip to the Dockside Store as they'd come in by seaplane so hadn't brought any provisions along. We had more than enough for four people so told them we'd gladly share with them and that they'd be doing us a favor so nothing went to waste and we didn't have to
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Dining room pork chop dinner
transport anything back off the island in the way of food. The next morning we'd all hit the store together, pick up the few items we needed and we'd be set.
Jay showed Kendall where everything on the boat was stored and told them help themselves whenever they wanted to have dinner alone together or whatever.
If you were to ask Jay and I what our favorite part of the trip to Isle Royale was? We'd tell you that it was that no one had their face buried in screens, everyone enjoyed socializing with one another and we became kind of like a family in that we all tried to help each other out whenever possible and look out for one another.
Raspberry Island/Sunset Cruise
After dinner, take a sunset cruise on the MV Sandy to Raspberry Island.
Despite its remote aura, Raspberry Island is conveniently located just a short canoe or boat ride from Rock Harbor on the east end of Isle Royale. Whether you’re staying at the Rock Harbor Lodge or visiting for a day trip, you’ll find that this island is an accessible yet distinctive escape.
The tour starts on land, walking the 1 mile bog boardwalk trail on Raspberry Island. You'll then meet and board the boat MV Sandy to take a cruise around Blake Point to view features like the Canada shoreline, the site of the Monarch shipwreck, and a Lake Superior sunset.
The NPS notes that this is a self‑guided experience, meaning there is no continuous guided narration for the hike or the boat ride — you walk or cruise at your own pace, though the boat is operated by the MV Sandy crew.
When preparing for your trip, remember that Raspberry Island’s trails and boardwalks are rugged and natural. They showcase the island’s wild character but require visitors to come equipped with sturdy footwear and a watchful eye for roots and rocks.
This particular tour is offered on Tuesdays and Fridays (after August 15, sunset cruise only; Wednesdays are Raspberry Island only). It lasts about 2.5 hours depending on route taken and sunset timing. Cost is currently $22 per person.
The tour departs from Rock Harbor Lodge. Get your reservations and there early, the boat fills up fast on this tour!
We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, especially learning about the Monarch shipwreck. The waters in Superior are really clear so if conditions are right you can see the wreck from the Sandy's boat deck. We couldn't that night because it was nearing sundown but learning about the wreck was fascinating anyway and yet another example of how treacherous Lake Superior can be.
Sunset isn't until around 10 pm on the island so you have plenty of time after dinner to engage in activities before it gets dark.
Most of your first day will be taken up with traveling in to Isle Royale and getting settled. If you'd rather skip something like our impromptu Happy Hour then take one of the short hikes on the island if you're not too worn out.
I expected to see moose...just not one to come nose-to-nose with me when I opened the drapes.
I let out a startled yelp, backpedaled into one of the Adirondack chairs knocking it over and landed in a heap on the floor.
Meanwhile, Jay is doing one of these numbers...
1st order of business of the day: Get heart back in regular sinus rhythm after opening cottage drapes to see this staring back at you through your front window:
Kendall comes rushing over to see if we're okay, only to find us both convulsed with laughter. me still in a heap on the floor. The moose cow had taken off back into the woods. Maybe I'd put her into A fib too...
Well, since we were all headed to the store anyway and Jay had already been starting breakfast we had Kendall and Leslie join us for breakfast.
kayaking/canoeing
tobin harbor
After grocery shopping we'd decided we'd kayak/canoe around Tobin Harbor.
Tobin Harbor is located just north of Rock Harbor on the east
end of Isle Royale National Park. It contains numerous small islands that are nesting sites for loons and merganzers from spring until late July.
Tobin Harbor / Photo credit: NPS
The waters of Tobin Harbor are normally pretty calm so a great place for novice canoers/kayakers to paddle around. As with all Isle Royale waters, be careful of shallow reefs and protruding rocks. On some of its small islands you can find the remains of what were once thriving fishing villages.
Old fishing resort on one of the
Tobin Harbor islands
It's not uncommon to spot moose on the shore or loons on the water.
You can even pack a picnic lunch and have it on one of the islands. It's very relaxing!
If you're new to kayaking, there is one company that offers a 6 hour guided kayak trip in Agate Harbor that includes your lunch.
However, most guided kayak tours in the area that I could find take place over a number of days. You can check at the Marina to see if they know of a short guided trip if interested.
There's plenty to see while paddling around Tobin Harbor area. You can watch the seaplanes landing and taking off for starters and it's not at all uncommon to see moose in this area. From one of the island docks you can do a 1 mile hike up to Lookout Louise, that has stunning views.
Park visitors usually spend 3-6 hours paddling Tobin Harbor, not counting time to explore its islands.
You can click on the slideshow photos below to see the captions that accompany each photo.
Prior to our arrival in Rock Harbor there had been a fire caused by a lightning strike. It jumped the water over to Raspberry Island, destroying about 300 acres of the park. The Raspberry Island trails had to be closed to clear the trail of burned trees. Leslie remarked how creepy walking the island's fire burned trail was, how she imagined it would be what walking through an apocalypse must be like. I hadn't thought of it like that but she was right.
We'd planned to make a day of paddling Tobin Harbor and exploring its islands but we noticed a dark cloud overhead and rain in the distance so we got off the water, not wanting to become one of Isle Royale's shipwrecks. It did begin to rain, the temperature dropped significantly and we'd just made it back when it began to pour rain and the fog rolled in, the wind kicked up and the lake decided to PMS.
We waited out the storm and for the sun to come back out, then went back out onto the lake - this time in our 26' boat just to be on the safe side and so we could get back to shore fast if need be.
That evening we grabbed a pizza on the Grill deck so we could socialize with our fellow Lodge guests.
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We created our own after dinner entertainment.
Each of us had to tell a story of an experience we'd had involving nature.
I'm not one for public speaking or even being in the limelight, that's Jay's forte. He had me tell the story of a loon rescue I'd organized on Big Arbor Vitae Lake when a loon became trapped in the ice in -30 degree temperatures. The story ending up airing on TV in 3 states and we ended up getting nicknamed the Arbor Vitae Rescue Rangers.
(Must've been a slow news day the day we finally captured the loon?)
Well when I'd finished my story Dr Big Mouth Jay announces "She lives in the Northwoods and owned a fishing resort. You should hear some of the stories she could tell you!"
I shot him the You wanna sleep outside with the wolves and moose tonight? LOOK. Nonetheless, we had a good time together, listening to each other's stories.
scuba diving an isle royale shipwreck
There are 10 major shipwrecks in Isle Royale waters.
These wrecks span from the 1870s to the 1940s and represent the evolution of Great Lakes maritime transport, from wooden paddle steamers to steel freighter:
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SS Algoma Passenger Steamer (1883–1885) – Stern remains.
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SS America Package Freighter (1898–1928) – Midship and stern intact, including engine room and cabins.
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SS Henry Chisholm Bulk Freighter (1880–1898) – Large intact steam engine.
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SS Chester A. Congdon Bulk Freighter (1907–1918) – Pilot house and bow on one side, stern on the other.
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SS George M. Cox Passenger Steamer (1901–1933) – Scattered wreckage and machinery.
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SS Cumberland Passenger Steamer (1871–1877) – Wooden hull sections, side-wheel, boiler.
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SS Emperor Bulk Freighter (1910–1947) – Mostly intact, bow damaged.
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SS Glenlyon Bulk Freighter (1893–1924) – Scattered sections with some large parts.
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SS Kamloops Package Freighter (1924–1927) – Intact at extreme depth.
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SS Monarch Package Freighter (1890–1906) – Large wooden wreckage, heavy construction.
NPS map of Isle Royale shipwrecks
The following stunning footage of various Isle Royale shipwrecks was shot by underwater photographer, Becky Kagan Schott. You can see how well preserved some of these wrecks are...
The SS America is one of the most popular and accessible dive sites in Isle Royale National Park.
You can read an excellent history of the America here - including the story of and photos of the sinking and survivor accounts.
Even if you're not a diver you'll find the story interesting.
Not my video but this will show you the wreck...
The dive was super interesting but even in a dry suit a diver can get cold and I have a rare, potentially fatal blood disease that makes me uber hypersensitive to cold. I was glad to surface, get back to the cottage and into a hot shower to warm up. They aren't kidding when they say diving Lake Superior is COLD.
Once I was warmed up we grilled our dinner and just spent the rest of the night relaxing. We took a walk along the lakeshore and played a game of Monopoly - the National Parks version. Check this out!
the guys go fishing
When Kendall mentioned he liked both fishing and walleye at dinner, Jay invited him to go walleye fishing with him.
Morning: Pre-sunrise breakfast in the form of an IV highly caffeinated coffee drip.
Jay is up before the crack of dawn to get an early start because well...you know...walleye are active before sunrise! (The park moose aren't even up yet!)
Now can a grown man manage to make himself breakfast and quietly gather his own fishing equipment without forgetting anything and waking his sleeping partner?
In a word NOOOOOO!
So now I'm up before the park moose too.
Along with Dr. "Just fix me something quick for breakfast! We need to get out there early!"
Me while inserting my IV coffee drip, thinking How about I toss YOU right out that front door and feed YOU to the moose and wolves for BREAKFAST instead?!!
I can hear all you gals out there laughing. We've all been there, right?
Now, this is not an individual couple Pat and Jay kinda thing.
It's apparently universal because at that moment, as I'm inserting a highly caffeinated IV drip in my arm there's a knock
on the door and there stand Kendall and Leslie - because he's so excited to go walleye fishing he's gotten HER out of bed too! And she and I are looking at each other out of our one open eye like Let's just feed em and GET THE 2 OF EM OUTTA HERE! - as I hook her up to an IV coffee drip.
For your own itinerary, you're welcome to join Leslie and I at 7 am when the lodge dining room opens for breakfast, because we're wide awake now, there's no more Plan A going back to bed and sleep.
Plan B: Set up our own Mimosa bar in the Lodge dining room and drink enough Mimosas to fill Lake Superior.
It was a good plan. It made us sleepy enough to go back to our cottages and catch a nap.
The guys were still out fishing so after our naps we decided we'd take a short hike over to Suzy's Cave. Because we were so Mimosa-fueled by that time that we decided we wanted to see a cave. (It was the Mimosas talking...)
hike to suzy's cave
Suzy's Cave is located on the east end of Isle Royale National Park. It is a popular short hike from the Rock Harbor area.
Suzy’s Cave includes an inland sea arch formed by wave action some 4000 years ago when water levels were higher. The cave is located between Three Mile Campground and Rock Harbor.
Rock Harbor Area (1.8 miles away)
Suzy Cave Trail and Suzy Cave
By the time we'd returned from the cave the guys had returned from their fishing trip - grinning like they'd just won the Isle Royale fishing lottery.
Although they don't really advertise it, the Lodge dining room has a Clean & Cook deal where they'll clean and cook the fish you caught for your dinner.
I believe the cost was $15 per fish for our fish (?). Pricing goes by size of fish and how you want it prepared. They'll prepare it to your specifications.
So we all hiked over to the Lodge bar for 'Happy Hour', Leslie and I got us seats while the guys arranged with the cooks to make
our beer battered walleye dinner for us.
I have to hand it to the dining room cooks, they did a fantastic job. The walleye was delicious!
The cost of Clean and Cook to have your fish prepared for you varies by fish type, weight and size. Ours cost $15 per walleye and we didn't think that was at all unreasonable. If you want them to use one of your recipes to prepare your fish they will do that provided they have the ingredients on hand.
Beer battered walleye
Evening Ranger Program &
Rock Harbor Lodge campfire social
Isle Royale National Park offers evening ranger programs at the Rock Harbor Lodge area. These programs are held at the Rock Harbor Lodge amphitheater, auditorium and other locations and are free and open to everyone. The program lasts about one hour and cover Isle Royale’s natural and cultural history, including moose, wolves, geology, shipwrecks, biogeography, wilderness, and more.
The Rock Harbor Lodge area offers a campfire social after the program, making it a combined evening experience. This is a casual gathering where visitors can share stories, enjoy drinks, and enjoy the stargazing that’s one of Isle Royale’s highlights.
We made it a point to attend these Ranger programs and the campfire social after them. The stargazing is phenomenal and we met so many nice people at the campfire socials.
exploring inland lakes
Isle Royale National Park contains hundreds of inland lakes.
At 4,150 acres, Siskwit Lake is the largest of Isle Royale's inland lakes and is known for it's great fishing.
Isle Royale’s inland lakes are a network of smaller lakes, ponds, and streams located inland from the main body of Lake Superior. They are popular with anglers and paddlers, offering a more secluded experience than the island’s coastal waters.
Key inland lakes include:
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Siskiwit Lake – The largest inland lake on the island, known for its cold, clear, nutrient-poor water. It’s a major fishing spot for perch, pike, walleye, and lake trout.
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Lake Whittlesey – A scenic southern inland lake accessible mainly by canoe or kayak, part of the long southern loop.
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Wood Lake – Another southern inland lake, often paddled after Lake Whittlesey as part of the southern loop.
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Intermediate Lake – Located in the southern inland lakes loop, it connects to Lake Richie and Rock Harbor.
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Lake Richie – While primarily a coastal lake, it serves as a key portage point for reaching the southern inland lakes.
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Chippewa Harbor – A small inlet and campsite area that can be reached by boat or portage, often used as a base for southern inland lakes trips.
General Isle Royale park maps, boating maps, area guides, hiking and backpacking maps, and more can be downloaded from the Maps and Brochures page.
If you're so inclined, bring a fishing rod with you while paddling around! Isle Royale's waters are teeming with several species of fish including trout, northern pike, walleye, whitefish, bass, perch.
If you plan to fish in Tobin Harbor (a bay on Lake Superior) within Isle Royale National Park, you do need a valid Michigan fishing license.
According to the National Park Service, a Michigan fishing license is required for angling in Lake Superior, including bays, harbors, and channels, as well as when transporting fish from the island to the mainland. This applies to all finfish in the park’s waters, regardless of whether you’re fishing from shore, boat, canoe, or kayak.
No license is needed for Isle Royale’s inland lakes. Anyone 17 years or older must purchase a fishing license to fish in Michigan public waters, including for fish, amphibians, crustaceans, and reptiles. Youth under 17 may fish without a license but must follow all regulations. Adults assisting minors must have a license.
Official Purchase Options:
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Isle Royale National Park Visitor Center / Lodge Office
The park’s main visitor center and the Rock Harbor Lodge Office (near the dock) sell Michigan fishing licenses. The Lodge Office typically sells 24‑hour fishing licenses and is located around the harbor from the Dockside Store.
Contact: 800 East Lakeshore Drive, Houghton, MI 49931 | Phone: 906‑482‑0984 National Park Service. -
Dockside Store (Rock Harbor Lodge)
The Dockside Store does not sell fishing licenses, but it is a good place to stock up on tackle, gear, and supplies before heading out.
From Rock Harbor Lodge: You can paddle from the lodge to Siskiwit Bay, which is a short distance along the shore. From Siskiwit Bay to Siskiwit Lake: There is a marked portage trail (signs with a “P” indicate portages) that connects the bay to the lake. From Siskiwit Lake: You can then portage to other inland lakes like Wood Lake or Intermediate Lake if desired.
You must carry the kayak on your back or use a backpacking-style carry system — no wheelbarrows, carts, or mechanical portaging devices. The portage from Siskiwit Bay to Siskiwit Lake is about 1.9 miles along the trail system.
If you want to avoid the portage, you could use the Water Taxi service from Rock Harbor Lodge to bring your kayak to a nearby dock, then paddle from there. Rock Harbor Lodge Water Taxi (Rock Harbor → Lake Siskiwit): $88–$98 per person with one kayak (one-way). We did the portage. I mean c'mon...it doesn't cost any $200 to transport a kayak around the bend to Siskiwit Bay!
We wanted to do some inland lake fishing for yellow perch...
One perch filet dinner coming up tonight!
To make things even better, we discovered if you walked along the trails watching for thickets, you could pick thimbleberries, blueberries, and raspberries.
A word of caution in doing this:
KNOW HOW TO IDENTIFY THE EDIBLE BERRIES! There are toxic look-alikes like Blackthorn and Hawthorns present as well! So be sure you know exactly what you're picking.
We spent some time berry picking so we could have fresh berries for dinner too. Jay says I make a wicked good Norwegian
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wild berry salad with oats toasted in coconut oil and honey or maple syrup, sprinkle some chopped nuts and lemon zest or cinnamon on there. YUM! You can even add a little granola if you like.
We paddled around just relaxing and watching the wildlife until it was time to head back to make dinner.
When Kendall and Leslie returned from wherever they'd been all day we invited them over for dinner:
Perch filets, wild berry salad, some green beans I'd canned, and fried potatoes. It was a great, healthy meal. Jay was even kind enough to clean and filet the perch for me. (We have a rule: you catch it, you clean it.)
Kendall saw our National Parks Monopoly game, it intrigued him so after dinner we played a game.
All in all it was a wonderful, relaxing day.
Kendall and Les hadn't planned on staying as long as we were but they surprised us by telling us they'd spoken to the Lodge office and extended their stay to match our own because they were having such a good time. Luckily, no one had been booked into their side of the housekeeping cottage because it was later in the season. We were thrilled they'd extended their stay!
guided mv sandy boat tour
Rock Harbor Lodge offers guided MV Sandy boat tours from early June through mid-September. They offer various tours and we'd made reservations for their Edisen Fishery and Rock Harbor Lighthouse tour - A visit to the historic commercial fishery with the resident fishery demonstrator (July through August), then a 1/4 mile walk to Rock Harbor Lighthouse to see its maritime exhibits, and then a walk to the moose and wolf research station at Bangsund Cabin. Introduction upon arrival by the National Park Service.
That the area contained shipping lanes made the Island a natural place for lighthouses, given the often treacherous waters of Lake Superior.
Yet, even the presence of lighthouses has not always been enough to keep ships from courting disaster. Ten major shipwrecks ring the island, and numerous other small boats rest in park waters.
Although all lighthouses today are unmanned, they were once home to the keepers of the lights. The keepers were tasked with alerting ships to danger, and rescuing survivors of shipwrecks.
The keepers were a hardy breed, guardians of the lights, often making the difference between life and death for those crossing Lake Superior. There are 4 lighthouses in the park - Rock Harbor, Passage Island, Rock of Ages and Isle Royale.
Passage Island Lighthouse was the last manned lighthouse on Lake Superior, built in 1872.
Our guide had some great stories about the various keepers that once occupied the lighthouses, mostly some fascinating survival stories.
The Bangsund Cabin where the moose-wolf project is carried out was particularly interesting. The Wolf-Moose Project’s home base is out of an old fishing compound (main cabin built in 1926, back cabins added in 1937) on the northeastern end of the island on Rock Harbor. It is called Bangsund Cabin after the Norwegian fisherman who built up the fishery.
Each summer, field crews meet at Bangsund Cabin so the data they collect can be collated and samples can be carefully inventoried, processed, and labeled before being taken to our labs on the mainland for further processing and analysis.
In addition to serving as an invaluable research base, Bangsund Cabin is also a place where researchers share their scientific knowledge and new discoveries with park visitors. Over the past decade, more than 10,000 visitors have visited Bangsund Cabin to view the unique collection of antlered bull skulls on display and learn about the natural history of Isle Royale and the latest research discoveries.
The large collection of antlered moose skulls – the Mooseum – includes some of the most unique and interesting skulls that our field crews have discovered over the years. It is the world’s largest collection of antlered moose skulls.
Our tour started at 2 pm and lasted until 6 pm.
Reservations are required and can only be made at the Rock Harbor Lodge Office when you’re on the island.
The cost is $60 for adults and $30 for children 11 years old and younger.
For the full schedule, ticket info, and to reserve, visit the Rock Harbor Lodge or the Isle Royale National Park MV Sandy Tours page.
Earlier that day we'd decided to hike one of the more popular day hike trails in the park, the Scoville Point Trail out of Rock Harbor. You can do this trail as an in and back or as the loop it is.
The trailhead is located next to the Rock Harbor Lodge.
You'll encounter different terrain on this easy 4 mile trail, from forest to bog to magnificent views of Lake Superior.
We spotted plenty of moose droppings and a few prints but didn't cross paths with any. moose. We did see squirrels, birds and a couple of harmless garter snakes before reaching Scoville Point.
I wasn't doing the backpacking thing again after the Appalachian Trail disaster...but there are plenty of day hike trails in the park that offer beautiful scenery and wildlife that don't require backpacking.
Here's a rundown on all of the park trails:
Easy Hikes
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Rock Harbor Trail – Daisy Farm to Three Mile (~6.7 mi, 20 ft gain) – Flat, accessible paths; great for all skill levels Komoot.
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West Huginnin Cove Trail (~4.8 mi, 80 ft gain) – Gentle, rocky shoreline walk Komoot.
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McCargoe Cove to East Chicken Bone (~3.2 mi, 14 ft gain) – Easy, short loop www.outdooractive.com.
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Short hike around Isle Royale (~3.6 mi) – Leisurely loop through varied terrain www.outdooractive.com.
Moderate Hikes
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Stoll Memorial Trail (Scoville Point) (~3.5–4.7 mi) – Shoreline loop with views; easy to moderate AllTrails.
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Suzy’s Cave Trail (~3.8–4 mi) – Moderate, rocky with roots; inland sea arch AllTrails
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Rock Harbor Trail – 16.8 mi – Moderate, rocky shoreline; good fitness required Komoot.
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Mt. Ojibway to McCargoe Cove via Greenstone Ridge (~14.8 mi) – Moderate, with ridge climbs Komoot.
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Chickenbone Lake to Hatchet Lake (~12.5 mi) – Moderate, forest and lake views Komoot.
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Grace Creek Overlook (~3.5–3.6 mi) – Moderate, scenic overlook AllTrails
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Tobin Harbor Trail (~6 mi) – Moderate, shoreline and forest AllTrails.
Difficult Hikes
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Mount Franklin via Tobin Harbor (~9.8–15.7 mi) – Moderate to difficult; steep summit climb AllTrails.
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Greenstone Ridge Trail (~40 mi) – Difficult; varies from easy to steep depending on section and weather National Parks Traveler.
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Feldtmann Ridge Trail (~19–20 mi) – Average difficulty 6.5; can be challenging in wet conditions Copper Country.
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Harbor to Hills Loop (~26–33 mi) – Difficult; long, varied terrain National Parks Traveler.
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Lake Superior shoreline hike (~17.4 mi) – Difficult; exposed, rocky, and weather‑dependent
If you want a mix of easy and moderate hikes, start with Stoll Trail or Suzy’s Cave, then progress to Grace Creek Overlook or Tobin Harbor Trail. For serious backpackers, Greenstone Ridge or Feldtmann Ridge offer the island’s most extensive and varied terrain.
last day on isle royale
The four of us met for breakfast at the dining room breakfast buffet.
We were going to do a relaxing day, flying by the seat of our pants and doing whatever we felt like doing at the moment.
Jay and I had packed a picnic lunch for all of us to eat on the boat as we leisurely cruised around, taking in our last views of Isle Royale's scenery and wildlife and enjoying our last day together. Or what we assumed was our last day together.
During our cruise our conversation turned to leaving Isle Royale. Kendall and Leslie had arrived by seaplane and had planned to depart the island the same day. They'd departed from Houghton as we had but a friend had driven them to Houghton and would have to pick them up as their car was parked at his house in Marquette, MI - a full 100 miles away from Houghton.
Jay said "Well, that's silly! If you'd prefer and aren't set on the seaplane, why not just boat back with us? Our RV is parked at the Visitor Center, we'll be more than happy to drive you to your friend's house so he doesn't have to drive 100 miles to come pick you up!"
Ended up the four of us would be boating the 6 hours back to Houghton together and we were all happy about that. Back to Isle Royale...
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We swore the Isle Royale wildlife were putting on a "last day in the park" show just for us!
Kendall and Leslie could scarcely believe it when Jay told them this was the kind of wildlife that surrounded my lake home on a daily basis. Including the wolf pack alpha male that comes to visit me and will walk right up to me.
(Pictured below)
We stopped to watch a beaver fine tuning the dam it was building.
We saw a moose cow with her calf at one of the shorelines and a mink with a dead garter snake in its mouth.
Several loons paddled past as a bald eagle perched in a tree, watching us.
We spent the better part of the day just toolin' around the lake, doing absolutely nothing but what we wanted to do. We were off the fast forward of daily life and loving every minute of it.
None of us wanted to have to leave Isle Royale. Life is so much simpler there and what should be your priorities in life come very sharply into focus. The park changes you in the best way possible.
When we returned to the Lodge we had another impromptu
Happy Hour, then had dinner at the dining room and attended our last campfire social so we could say goodbye to all of the new friends we'd met.
We all spent the remainder of the night packing up for our departure the following day and loading up the boat.
We stopped to refuel at Ontonagon Village Marina. It offers gasoline only. It’s a small, historic marina with docks, restrooms, showers, and VHF monitoring. It’s a good stop if you need a quick fuel-up before continuing to Rock Harbor or Windigo - or returning to Houghton.
leaving isle royale
After a quick breakfast in the dining room we were off and running on our 6 hour trip back to Houghton.
Ontonagon Marina
There was a Subway within a short walking distance from the marina so we stretched our legs and headed to Subway for lunch before continuing on to Houghton, arriving in Houghton around 4 pm.
We transferred gear from the boat to the RV and we were off for Marquette. We're planning another trip together to Isle Royale in the future.